Sunday, August 22, 2010

SGang Gwaay

N 52 06.053, W 130 58.192
Keeweenah Bay, Kunghit Island

Today was a special day. We went to SGang Gwaay, the UNESCO World Heritage Site. On some maps you might see this as Anthony Island. The Haida name translates as Wailing Island, referring to the sound made by the wind through the hollow of a reef near the island, it sounds like a woman wailing. The Kunghit Haida are believed to have had a presences on this island for at least 2,000 years. We visited with Paul and Clifford, two of the Watchmen on the island. Paul gave us a tour of what remains of the village, SGang Gwaay Linagaay, Wailing Island Town.

We got to see memorial and mortuary poles. Few interior and house frontal poles remain. In the heyday, the village had 17 houses, with each house sheltering 30 or more individuals. We saw the corner posts and some of the frame structures and the different levels within a house including the firepit in the center. The village overlooks a small bay with a narrow entrance. You could see where they would bring up their canoes. Behind the houses, there was a reservoir where they collected water as well as gardens including a potato patch and apple trees.

The path from the anchorage to the Watchmen's housing is a boardwalk through the old growth rainforest. It is truly a special place and we were glad to have the opportunity to see it. We also heard about how they are trying to maintain the site and the remaining poles. If you are interested in finding out more about SGang Gwaay and Gwaii Hanaas, their website is www.pc.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas.

As we leave the anchorage, Rich saw some floats in the water that usually mark crab pots. He started to dodge them when they suddenly flew up in the air to avoid the boat. They were tufted Puffins, and not floats at all. Surprise.

After our visit we motored up Louscoone Inlet to a mooring buoy that has a hose with running water. It is connected to a fresh water stream on shore. The water is not potable and we must boil it before we can drink it but we can use it for showers and washing.

We crossed back through Houston Stewart Channel to the east side of Kunghit Island. A weather system is moving in from the southeast and we will remain here at least until Tuesday for it to pass us.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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