Sunday, December 4, 2016

A change is in the wind

I have not been writing much on the blog this year. In March Rich had a medical incident and we returned to the United States. In April we welcomed our new grandson, Leo. In June we contracted with our friends, James and Jordan, to sail Windarra from Salvador, Brazil to Trinidad, where she is now on the hard.

It had been our plan after returning to Windarra in January 2017 to sail north in the eastern Caribbean and the east coast of the United States. We wanted to enjoy sailing during the summer months to New York and then return to Annapolis in the fall and put Windarra up for sail and start retirement 2.0.

Well... as all sailing plans are drawn in the sand and always changing, so our plans are changing. We will still return to Windarra in January but instead to put her up for sale instead of for sail.

If you are interested in buying Windarra and taking her on your own adventure, please contact us at svwindarra "at sign" hotmail.com. The asking price is $175,000 USD.
 
For more information on the SV Windarra for sale, please go to our other blog, Stevens 47 for sale
 
Elaine and Rich

Sunday, June 12, 2016

Road Trip, June 7 - 11

 
In between house and pet sits, Rich and I decided to take a road trip along the coast. Our first stop was Port Townsend, Washington. We used to visit Port Townsend when we were first cruising on SV Fairwind and SV Windarra. It is nice to see that the town has not changed much and still has the same charm.
 
 
 
We headed out to the Pacific Ocean and drove through Forks, of vampire fame. 

 
 
We passed through Kalaloch, where Rich and I had rented a cabin before we were married. The next stop was Lake Quinault and the Rain Forest Resort on the lake. The Salmon House Restaurant provided an excellent meal and hummingbirds visiting feeders outside the windows provided emtertainment.

 
We continued south with a stop at Westport for lunch and we spent the night in Astoria, Oregon before continuing on the Oregon coast. The trip was not complete without a stop at Tillamook and the cheese factory. You can see the large blocks of cheddar moving on the conveyor belt in the factory.

 
After Tillamook we drove back to Bothell to visit with our daughter Sarah and to go back to the gym and work off the calories we ate during the road trip.

Monday, April 25, 2016

The new family

Grandson Leo!

We are also in the United States to welcome our new grandson, Leo Philip Wannier. He was born at 1:21 am on April 17, 2016, weighing in at 8 lbs 5 oz and a length of 20 inches.

Rich and I drove to the San Francisco area to meet him and celebrate with our son, Jesse and our daughter-in-law, Rae, the proud parents.

Rich and I are enjoying this new experience!

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

Interruption

You may have noticed on the blog that our entries stopped mid passage. We did not fall off the edge of the earth but we did have a medical emergency. I will not write the details now but suffice to say that we are both okay and back in Seattle. Windarra is at Caravelas and soon to be moved to Aratu, near Salvador.

Not sure if or when we will return to Windarra.

I will write more later,

Elaine

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

Day 2 to Salvador

19 25.981 S, 039 26.468 W

On Monday we took a tour of the Garoto Chocolate factory in Vitoria. It is the only chocolate factory in Brazil and supplies Brazil as well as 60 other countries. As Rich and I were the only ones that did not speak Portuguese, we got a personal tour. It was very impressive and there was a tasting room at the end. How sweet is that! My favorite is the dark chocolate covered coconut.

Tuesday morning we left Iate Clube Espirito Santos at 9:45 am bound for Salvador, a distance of about 475 nautical miles. Unfortunately we have had a 2 knot counter current and our progress has been slow, with a speed over the ground averaging 3.0 knots. We have only done about 74 nautical miles! I doubt our 24 hour total will be over 100. Ouch.

Hopefully things will improve.....

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Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Vitoria

20 17.935 S, 040 17.255 W

The second night was much better than the first. We did some sailing and motored the last bit. While it was not the plan we did come into the harbor at night and by 3:00 am we were anchored. After a bite to eat we went to sleep.

Later in the morning we went into the Iate Clube Espírito Santos and are now secured, bow to the dock. We need to use the dingy to get back and forth.

We met a couple on the small sailboat next to us. Modris is from Latvia and Maria is from Sweden. They are heading south so we will exchange some information with them.

Port captain tomorrow. Hopefully better than Rio.

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

It was a dark and stormy night...

21 25.181 S, 040 31.468 W

Yesterday to anchored at Buzios after the overnight passage from Rio. Since we continued to have a weather window, we decided to leave at 5pm and continue north to Vitoria.

All was fine when we left, light winds and motoring.

But... then around 7:30 pm, we could see squalls closing in on us. For the next several hours we had lightening, thunder, rain coming down in buckets, the seas were churning. We had to dodge small fishing boat with no running lights so we could figure out what direction they were going, only a sign white light. Sometimes they would not be on radar but would only just show up out of the darkness. We were soaked as well as everything in the cockpit. We put on our foul weather gear (hard to imagine). I put most of our portable electronics in an anti static bag and then into the microwave, just in case.

Early in the morning it finally cleared up.

Now we are sailing along under the staysail making good progress. Hope to be in Vitoria some time in the morning tomorrow.

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Monday, February 29, 2016

Quick stop at Buzios

Yesterday we left Clube Naval Charitas and stopped across the way at the fuel dock to top off our tanks and by 9:30am we were on our way leaving Rio de Janeiro. We had hoped to sail to Buzios but it was not in the cards. It did seem like a lot of large ship traffic was going the same direction which makes AIS very helpful.

We had a small tern come and hitchhike for a while, sitting on the lifelines on the port side foredeck. He/she was with us for several hours.

Early this morning we had to slow down so that we had more daylight for our entry to Buzios. The town is a popular vacation spot. Unfortunately we did not see any open moorings so we are anchored but don't feel comfortable leaving the boat if the winds change.

But the gribs look promising, so we will relax and then tonight we will continue northward to Vitoria, a 190 nautical miles away.

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Saturday, February 27, 2016

Sailing license, Turistas

On Tuesday we moved to the dock at Clube Naval Charitas. It is a large facility with a haul out area, covered storage for small sailboats, small chandlery, restaurant, bar and most important, a large swimming pool!

A short walk from the club is a catamaran to downtown Rio. As Rich is over 60, he rides for free! The ride is about 20 minutes and from the dock we either caught a taxi around town.

On our first ride we walked over to the Capitan dos Portos to check in. Up until this day it has been a low key event. Unfortunately, someone in the office was upset about something and we were berated for not having a sailing license. No where in any of the cruising guides or online websites such as Noonsite or SSCA is there a mention of needing a sailing license in Brazil if you are a foreign cruiser. We tried very patiently to explain that we did not have one but that we have records showing that we have over 25,000 blue water miles of experience, including Cabo de Hornas. Eventually they asked for our phone number and said they would come to the boat. For an inspection? Or ? We explained that we had plans to do some sightseeing and may not be at the boat. No problem, they would call first. Well, so far, no calls.

As you can see from the photos in our last post we having been doing some sightseeing. We took the gondola up to Pao do Acucar aka Sugarloaf Mountain. The views were great and we dodged the people with selfie sticks. Another day we went to Ipanema. There we found a Starbucks so we could add a Brazil cup to our collection and have a frappacino at the same time. We walked along the beach and saw a bazillion people. We also made a stop at the H Stern museum, a famous worldwide jeweler that started here in Brazil.

At Clube Naval Charitas we met Susy. She was born in England but has spent most of her life in Brazil. She and her husband did a circumnavigation in the late 1970s and she is a godsend to foreign cruisers as she is fluent in English, French and Portuguese. One of the photos in the previous post is of Rich and Susy on one of the hilltops overlooking Niterio and Rio. She gave us the Cook's tour and took us to a great supermercado for provisioning. Thank you Susy.

Now it is Saturday and plenty hot. It is 93 but according to the Weather Channel it feels like 112. Time to go to the pool.

We hope to leave tomorrow for Buzios. It will be an overnight passage around Cabo Frio. I wonder why it has that name?

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Friday, February 26, 2016

Rio de Janeiro

Here are a few photos of Rio de Janeiro.

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Rio, Rio de Janeiro, Oh, Oh

22 55.907 S, 043 06.337 W Niterio, Rio de Janeiro

I tried to look for the reflection of stars in the water at Saco do Ceu but the overcast skies meant no stars.

Yesterday morning, 2/20, we were up at 6:15 am and up anchor at 7:30 am after our morning cuppa. With little or no wind we motored our way to Rio de Janeiro. It was a long day and around 6:00 pm we passed Ipanema and Copacobana beaches with Christ the Redeemer statue high on the hilltop overlooking the city. We were not close enough to see any details of the beach but enough to see that it was busy with people. Passing by Sugarloaf we crossed the channel entrance to Niterio which is across the bay from 'downtown' and anchored just before 7:00 pm in front of the Clube Naval de Charitas, a yacht club recommended by our friends on SV Storm Bay of Hobart.

Rich and I sat down in the cockpit to rest a bit and enjoy our CDA* drinks (Cheated Death Again), but our celebration was premature. Had we displeased Neptune in some way?

It was starting to get dark. In the distance we could see thunderheads as we had approached the city but we thought that we would be okay.

First our anchor started to drag. Rich fired up the engine and we turned all of the navigation equipment back on. I went forward to help with bringing up the anchor. The winds were picking up and the seas were too. On the radar we could see where land was but everything else was covered with rain. The anchor came up but was caught on some line. Let it down and back up and luckily the line came off. Now the winds were up to 34 knots. The water was frothy, the wind howling, the rain coming down in torrents. Rich steered the boat over our original course coming in, back and forth over about a half a mile, waiting for the storm to pass. As we have our sunscreens around the bimini, whenever the wind was behind us, the cockpit and Rich would get soaked. We could hear the rain splashing on the deck when it filled the mainsail to overflowing and the boat would heel in the wind.

Finally the storm passed after about 45 minutes. We re-anchored with plenty of chain and reset the anchor alarm.

Welcome to Rio.

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Friday, February 19, 2016

Seco do Ceu, Ilha Grande

23 06.535 S, 044 12.768 W

We stayed one more night at Paraty as Rich had to change some bolts that hold the alternator in place. It was nice to have free wifi from Marina 188 as well.

This morning we left around 9:30 am and it was a motor with no wind all the way to Ilha Grande, about 36 nautical miles. We are anchored at Seco do Ceu, or inlet of the stars. Rumor has it that the water is so still at night you can see the reflection of the stars. So we are going to check in out and will let you know. The inlet has a few restaurants and a resort or two. We have seen a few tour boats come through. The rest is dense jungle. Some friends of our say there are monkeys on the island. I went swimming after we got settled and the water is about 87 degrees F, like a bathtub, but nice after the hot day motoring.

There is a Brazilian couple also anchored here. Noosa, paddled over on her kayak and we chatted for a bit. They are from Sao San Francisco and are slowly working their way north. She gave us some information about Ilha Grande.

We are trying to decide if we should get up early tomorrow morning and head to Rio de Janeiro, some 67 nautical miles or to wait a day and then go. Have to look at the gribs and decide.

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Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Paraty

Yesterday we paid our mooring bill, stopped at the fuel dock then went to anchor out until later. At 5:45 pm we weighed anchor and headed for Paraty on the Brazilian mainland. It was a 78 mile trip and we anchored this morning at 9:30 am. The passage was uneventful except for some rain and some fishing boats we had to dodge.

We took our dingy in and met with Leonardo, the marina manager. Even though we are anchored out we are able to use some of the facilities of the marina.

We caught a bus into town and met with the port captain to have our papers signed. Lunch was next at a lovely restaurant in the old part of town where the streets are cobbled and are flooded at certain high tides but that is okay, all of the entrances are up a step.

On the way back to the marina we hired a boat taxi so we had some views of town.

Tomorrow we plan to go to Ilha Grande!

Monday, February 15, 2016

Beautiful Ilhabela

We are still here at Ilhabela. On Friday with the help of Gabriel we put the mainsail on but then took it off to have the 3rd reef installed. Luckily Gabriel was able to have the loft do the work so we could install the sail on Sunday.
Saturday, Tomy and his wife, Gracie, picked us up and we drove in their 4 wheel drive up and over the island to the Atlantic side to a place called Castelhanos. It is a gorgeous white sand beach. Only 4 wheel drive vehicles are allowed to use the 'road' through the national park. It is definitely remote. We enjoyed the company, the warm water and a delicious meal at a small restaurant on the beach.

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Ilhabela

We arrived on Sunday and anchored off the beach north of the Ilhabela yacht club for two nights. Now we are on a mooring with the yacht club.

Ilhabela is an island just off
Sao Sebastian. It is a very popular spot for vacationing and boating. Sailboats, powerboats - large and small,
Jetskis, dingies, classic yachts abound. Unfortunately a lot of their activities churns up the water making it rolly at times. There is not much in the way of etiquette in the mooring field. Speed boats zip by at 5 plus knots until they get to the dock only a few yards away from us.

The hillsides are filled with homes and hotels in between the palm trees and dense vegetation all very green and lush.

It is a balmy 93 degrees but feels like 101, at least according to the weather channel. When we go into town we hope to find places with air conditioning.

Tomorrow the sailmaker is supposed to come and help take off the old main so he can remove some of the sail hardware like the battens and batten cars and move to the new sail.

We are having a few problems with the alternator and the pressure water system that we need to work as well. It is always something.

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Almost there

24 00.138 S, 45 43.579 W

We have about 25 nautical miles to go to get to Ilhabela. We have been sailing most of the time but this morning around 8:15 am we decided to furl the sails and turn on the engine as the winds were dying.

Last night was fairly uneventful except for the occasional flash of lightening in the distance, so I put the electronics back in the microwave just to be safe. We are looking forward to arriving and getting settled for a few days. It might be a little tricky as it is Carnival and our Portuguese is less than perfect, so we will see. Our sailmaker, Gabriel, of North Sails, provided some suggestions but also with a note that no English is spoken.

Should be interesting.....

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Saturday, February 6, 2016

On our way to Ilhabela

25 32.815 S, 047 00.670 W

Yesterday morning we raised anchor and went to the fuel dock at the yacht club. We filled our fuel tanks and got some water too then headed off. We are glad we were putting Porto Belo behind us as the storm clouds moved in. As we headed north we could hear the thunder. Late last night and very early this morning we saw flashes of lightening in the distance to port. I gathered the small electronics, put them in an anti-static bag and then in the microwave to keep them safe in case we were struck. All is well on that.

We hope to reach Ilhabela on Sunday afternoon. We will be arriving during Carnival so much will be closed but it should be interesting.

Right now we have a large pod of dolphins swimming and jumping in the air by the boat. They sure look like they are having fun.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

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Friday, February 5, 2016

A nice day at anchor

Yesterday we stayed at the anchorage as our weather window opens today. We had crowds of tourist pirates as many as 3 boat loads around us. This morning a large cruise ship appeared in the bay. More turistas!

Today we hope to get fuel and then head for Ilhabela about 270 nautical miles north.

Cheers

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Thursday, February 4, 2016

At anchor Caixa de Aco

27 07.730 S, 048 31.741 W

We were not sure what to expect as we entered Porto Belo. Instead of a small village, we saw high rise apartments and condominiums several blocks deep lining the long beach around the bay.

We are anchored at Caixa de Aco, near Porto Belo. I think caixa means cove in Portuguese but since no wifi I can't look it up. It is surrounded by large homes and dense jungle like vegetation. There are two floating restaurants at the head of the cove. It is also a popular place for tourist boats in pirate motif. They motor by, wave, anchor and disgorge their passengers into the water. Some jump, others 'walk the plank' via a slide out the stern. After a while and a tout on the boat's horn, the tourists climb back on and they motor away. We feel safe from this brand of 'pirate'.

It is nice to be at anchor and have a good night's sleep. We will wait for the northerlies to go by and then continue on to Ilhabela.

The stowaway flew off as we came close to shore. Not sure if this was his intended stop or not.

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Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Changing direction

27 22.752 S, 048 13.236 W

We have been watching the gribs and decided to change direction and head for Porto Belo to avoid the northerlies and then continue on to Ilhabela.

Yesterday we found a stowaway. It is a small kingfisher. It has a brown back, yellow chest, black beak with a black stripe extending around his head with a white stripe below it. He has been hopping around, watching us in the cockpit with a sure eye. Thinking of calling him Passepatout but I don't think he will be with us for 80 days, more like 80 hours at most.

We also had a group of dolphins visit this morning. This is the most activity we have had in days.

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Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Squalls

29 29.920 S, 049 01.841 W

We had some good sailing yesterday afternoon. Last night the winds died off and this morning we had an adverse current and squalls. Oh Boy!

We are thinking of Porto Belo as a possible alternative if the winds continue from the north.

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Monday, February 1, 2016

Left Rio Grande, headed for Ilhabela

31 11.777 S, 050 25.637 W

Yesterday, 1/31, we had hoped to get out early but first we had to go to the bank and then find the fuel dock. We had general idea where is was. There was a Shell station sign which we believed pointed the way. Not, it was the dock with the sign Posto Marine. Any way the Brazilian fishermen whose boat we rafted to, and to find where the fuel dock was were very nice and helpful even though they did not speak any English or Spanish. It took a lot of our communication skills.

The fuel dock was fine and we filled most of our jerry jugs. We went to pay but we did not have exact change, so we gave a bit larger amount. The attendant was very concerned about this until we explained that we did not need the four dollars worth of change.

So now we are northbound again. We would like to go all the way to Ilhabela which is about 640 nautical miles. If not, the Stormies suggested an anchorage near the north side of Ihla de Santa Catarina, about 400 miles.

We will check the gribs daily and let you know.

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Friday, January 29, 2016

All checked in

32 02.519 S, 052 06.370 W

Yesterday we went to what we thought was correct location the Receita Federal or Customs. We took a number and waited. When our number came up we went to the appropriate desk and the nice gentleman realized we were at the wrong place so he wrote down the location of where we should go so we could give it to the taxi driver. It was out where the cargo ships were being loaded and unloaded. The customs agent spoke good English and helped us fill out the form online. The form is oriented to airplane passengers so we had to adjust for our situation. The fellow was very chatty but nice. After printing the form and Rich signing, he went off to have his boss sign as well. Meantime we talked to another fellow in the office who also spoken English and had recently visited New York City so we talked about that.

Next stop was the Capitania de Portos. Here there was very little English spoken other than greetings and please sit down. We managed to muddle through with our Spanglish. So now we are all checked in.

Next stop was to get SIM cards for our phones. This was a little bit of a Catch -22 situation. We want SIM cards for our phones so we have Internet access and can use apps like Google Translate but without SIM cards we can't use the phones to ask for SIM cards. Luckily we met Geovane, a mechanical engineer, who speaks excellent English and was in the Claro store getting a new cell phone as his was broken. He volunteered to assist us and we are glad he did. For non residents to get prepaid cell phones and SIM cards is new in Brazil. Typically they are only sold to residents who have a national identification number. You can get SIM cards in the large cities like Rio de Janeiro but there are not a lot of tourists here in Rio Grande. Geovane used his id number to help us purchase SIM cards and get our phones up and working. We now have Brazilian phone numbers. Thank you Geovane!

Today we stayed on board and washed some of the salt off from the last passage. Rich moved some fuel from the jerry jugs to the tanks. We might have a weather window on Sunday if we can get checked out and get fuel for the next leg north on the weekend.

We want to get to Ilhabela to pick up our new main sail. It is about 640 nautical miles away. There is an anchorage we may stop at along the way if the weather window does not hold but it is about 400 miles away.

We will let you know.
Boa noite.


Sent from SV Windarra iPad

Wednesday, January 27, 2016

Welcome to Brazil

32 02.519 S, 052 06.370 W

This afternoon we entered the breakwater for Rio Grande, Brazil and made our way up the 14 miles to dock by the oceanography museum. By 3:30 pm São Paulo time (one hour later than Montevideo, ,Uruguay) we were tied up to Silver Cloud, a ketch from the UK. We are up a river again.

After tying up and a quick shower we went to check into Brazil. First stop was the Policia Federal. Here we had our passports stamped, received a tourist card and a "Passé de Entrada de embarcacao" or an entry pass for the boat. Next stop was Receita Federal or Customs but they were closed for the day. So tomorrow we will go back to Customs for a "Termo de concessao de admission temporaria or temporary permit to have Windarra transit in Brazilian waters. Next stop after that is the Capitania do Porto for a passé de saida or cruising permit and then we will be all checked in. Not that we had mastered Spanish be we were able to muddle by. Now we have to learn Portuguese.

We will watch our weather window and hope for some more southeasterlies so we can work our way to Ilhabela for our new main sail.

We will keep you posted.

P.s. Thank you to the Stormies for their write ups, they are very helpful and to the Frannies for their emails and comments.

Sent from SV Windarra iPad

1/27 are we there yet

32 42.571 S, 052 11.279 W

Yesterday we had some good sailing up the coast and the seas are a bit more reasonable.

Rich saw a large fishing boat last night but no associated AIS target.

Looking forward to arriving....

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Tuesday, January 26, 2016

1/26, first day out of Montevideo

34 46.667 S, 054 04.973 W

Yesterday we checked out of Montevideo, with immigration and the Prefectura. Around 3:00 pm we had the lanchas help us untie our lines and maneuver away from the dock.

We are finally out of the Rio de la Plata and back into the South Atlantic ocean, away from the brown water and just passing La Paloma, Uruguay

The total distance to Roi Grande, Brazil is 315 nautical miles, of which 14 miles are up a channel to the town.

We are rolling around in sloppy seas but have a nice push from the current. For some reason the propane alarm keeps going off. We suspect a faulty sensor but it is really annoying having to go down below and turn it off every 10 minutes.

Cheers.

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Saturday, January 23, 2016

Mr Bill goes to Punta del Esta

On Thursday, 1/21, we took a 2 hour bus ride from Montevideo to Punta del Esta on the eastern tip of Uruguay. Punta del Esta is a resort town popular with Argentinians, Brazilians and Uruguayans. Many of the local rich and famous vacation here as well. There are plenty of large and expensive high rise condominiums with views of either the Atlantic or the Rio de la Plata or both.

Mr Bill is in front of the sculpture, Manos de la Arenas, a giant hand reaching out of the sand. It is a memorial to people who have drowned and a very popular place for photos, especially selfies.
The beaches were chock-a-block full of umbrellas, beach chairs and people. This is on the Atlantic side.
Rich and I stopped at Kitty's for lunch outside with excellent seafood. While we were here we checked out the marina in case we decided to stop here on our way to Brazil. In the late afternoon we took the bus back to Montevideo having enjoyed our excursion
.

Sunday, January 17, 2016

Saturday, January 16, 2016

Montevideo, Uruguay

34 54.485 S, 056 07.855 W

We arrived on Friday morning at the Yacht Club Uruguayo at Puerto Buceo and were tied up by 9:30 am. After getting settled and a quick shower we went to see the Prefectura which was conveniently located here at the yacht club.

Everything was fine with our paperwork so we got a taxi and went to Immigration to get our passports stamped. This was a bit of a bummer as the taxi driver told us we owed him 2400 Uruguayan pesos instead of 240 pesos. So we paid him only to find out that we actually gave him $78 instead of the $7.82 we should have paid him. Argh.

Anyway, we went to find the Immigration office. It looked a little like the office in Beetlejuice, with papers stacked up along the walls, older desks and nothing resembling a computer but we got our passports stamped after paying a fee of 80 pesos or about $2.60. That was easy.

We got a little lost trying to get back to the main thoroughfare but we met Sylvia. She works in the area and speaks excellent English and took us under her wing! Through Sylvia we got tourist maps, found out where the Brazilian consulate is, found a place to catch a tour bus to see Montevideo and an excellent place for lunch. All good and certainly made up for the taxi driver.

Today we walked to the Montevideo Mall next door to the World Trade Center and just a few blocks from the yacht club. The mall has a great supermarket which we checked out. It even has peanut butter (could not find this in Argentina). So we will definitely provision there. After a quick lunch we caught the tour bus. We managed to see a lot of Montevideo in 3 hours! I will try to send some photos later. There is a mixture of architecture styles from French to Spanish to Neoclassicism to Art Deco (Rich's least favorite). It is quite an interesting place. In the center old city we found pedestrian malls with great shops and outdoor cafes. We also heard a band with a woman in a very skimpy costume dancing like Carnival which is very popular here and lasts for a month. There is even a Carnival museum!

Since Montevideo is along the Rio de la Plata there are numerous beaches with people enjoying the sun and playing beach volleyball. The yacht club has two pools as well.

As tomorrow is Sunday we plan to do a few boat chores before we do any more exploring. Monday we will visit the Brazilian consulate to see about getting our visas.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

Thursday, January 14, 2016

Day 3 to Uruguay

34 56.851 S, 57 17.500 W

Wednesday we stayed at the anchorage in Canal Mitre, did a few chores and read our books.

This morning we were up anchor at 9 am after using the scythe to clear the shrubbery that had collected on the anchor chain.

Today the passage has been pretty uneventful but hot and humid. We are looking forward to being at Montevideo, Uruguay in the morning.

Cheers

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Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Don't sigh for me, Argentina

34 19.298 S, 058 29.139 W

Sorry I could not resist the pun. Since we have been in Buenos Aires, that song keeps running through my head.

Yesterday the Prefectura arrived on time. One fellow checked all of our documents while the other went below with Rich to check on our PFDs, flares, fire extinguishers, etc. No problemo! Everything was okay. They were nice and polite.

We dropped off the last bit of paperwork with the yacht club and with the help of the lancha, untied our lines and went to the fuel dock. This was the first time in a long time, since Puerto Montt, Chile that we went to a fuel dock. Now we are topped off.

We passed through Canal Honda with no hitches, no running aground, no drama except going against the current for most of the way. Last night we anchored along side Canal Mitre in 5 meters of water. We are thinking of staying here today as well until the winds switch around. It is about 140 nautical miles from here to Montevideo and we will have to follow the channels for most of the way and it does not make sense to have to bash into the wind and the current as the wind drives the current as well.

We have plenty of books to read and boat projects and chores to keep us busy.

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Monday, January 11, 2016

Checking out of Argentina

Today we were all prepared in the morning to check out of Argentina and head for Montevideo, Uruguay early in the morning. We went to the office and Fernando helped us with the forms, making copies and then calling a remis to take us on the various stops - Immigration, Customs and Prefectura or Coast Guard. At the first stop they explained that since we were leaving in the morning we could not check out now at 11:00 am but we had to come back at 5:00 pm. Okay, no problem, the remis took us to the Shell station for oil and then to the bank for a few more pesos and then back to the yacht club.
 
Rich and I did a few chores, like changing the oil in the engine, filling the water tanks, fixing the reefing lines and adding shock cords to the lazy jacks to help keep them away from the battens. This last bit involved Elaine going part way up the mast which she has not done in a long time. A bit of an adrenaline rush.
 
 At 4:30 pm, Fernando called another remis and off we went back to immigration. No problem and our passports and some forms are stamped for us to leave Argentina. Next stop customs which is conveniently in the next office in the El Tigre area. Customs fills out a zarpe form and stamps it but we need to have the Prefectura stamp and sign some forms and bring them back to Customs. Ok, back in the remis and off to the Prefectura. We show them the forms, plus they want a copy of our boat document, our passports and the form we filled out in Mar del Plata stating we would not go to the Malvinas (Falklands). More stamping and signing of forms, some discussion of where we entered Argentina and were we going straight to Montevideo. Back in the remis and back to Customs and we hand in 3 forms and next a stop at the grocery store. Rich pays the remis and sends him off as the Carrefours is within walking distance to the YCA. I recharge our phones and we buy a few groceries and walk back to the yacht club.
 
The office is close so we go to get the lancha to take us to the boat. The lancha driver explains that the Prefectura called and want us to call them back. Ok, now what. It turns out they want to stop by the boat before we leave at 7:30 am. Okay, so we will see what happens in the morning. The last time we had someone visit the boat was in Iquique, Chile over 2 years ago.
 
So, if all goes well tomorrow we will leave Yacht Club Argentino San Fernando, pick up fuel at the fuel dock nearby and head out Canal Honda and Canal Mitre and hopefully not run aground. It is about 150 nautical miles to Montevideo and to the Uruguayan Yacht Club at Buceo just outside of Montevideo. If all goes well we will arrive sometime on Wednesday.
 
The adventure continues.... 

Saturday, January 9, 2016

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

25 41.12 S, 054 26.41 W
On Tuesday, Jan 5, we flew from Buenos Aires (AEP) to Puerto Iguazu (IGR) and into the humid subtropical rainforest in northern Argentina, where it borders of Paraguay and Brazil to see the famous falls or cataratas in Spanish. The first European credited with recording the existence of the falls was the Spaniard, Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca in 1541. The name, Iguazu, is from the Guarani words meaning ‘big water’.
According to Wikipedia, “Legend has it that a deity planned to marry a beautiful woman named Naipi, who fled with her mortal lover, Taroba, in a canoe. In a rage, the deity sliced the river, creating the waterfalls and condemning the lovers to an eternal fall.”
By the numbers, the maximum height of the falls is 269 feet, with 275 drops or separate falls over a width of 1.7 miles. On average the flow rate is 62,010 cubic feet of water per second. As this year is an El Nino year and there has been much flooding in this area, I would not be surprised if the average is being raised.
The Iguazu National Park was created in 1934, just four years after Yellowstone was made a national park. In 1984, it was established as a Natural World Heritage Site by UNESCO and covers an area of 212 square miles. Inside the park is a narrow gage train that takes you part of the way to Garganta del Diablo or the Devil’s Throat. From the end of the tracks you walk on an elevated steel walkway that takes you over the forest floor and the river to the lookouts over the falls. It is extremely impressive. There are other walkways around the park to different falls both from above and then below. We tried to get on a boat tour which not only goes close to the falls but through but all of the trips were booked while we were there, so we skipped the showers! As it was, we were misted on the walkways, which felt great in the 95 plus temperatures and 90 plus humidity. We were both very impressed with this park. The facilities are first rate and the walkways provide up close viewing of the falls.
Rich on the train

Devil's Throat

Looking across the falls, see the people in the upper right hand corner for scale

Elaine posing in front of the falls

Looking down over the falls, see the people on the left and the lower paths in the center of the photo
The park is home to spotted jaguars, butterflies, coatis, prego monkeys, coral snakes, toucans, parrots and yellow breasted caimans. We only saw butterflies and coatis. The coatis are in the raccoon family with ringed tails but a long snout almost like an anteater. They beg and steal food from the tourists who are crazy enough to ignore the warning signs which show nasty looking bites and scratches from these animals.
A coati

A butterfly landed on Rich's hand

Rich caught a picture of this butterfly visiting a flower.
We spent three nights in Puerto Iguazu and returned on Friday. The weather report forecasted rain for the whole time but we only experienced two short showers when we were back at the hotel. Having air conditioning at the hotel was a must. If you get a chance, we would recommend going. You can also get a Brazilian visa and see the falls from the other side as well. My ‘foo’ with the visa website was not good before we left so this did not work out for us but there was plenty to see on the Argentinian side.

Friday, January 1, 2016

Up the river

Oh no, Mr. Bill!

We checked out of YCA Puerto Madero and decided to go 'up river' to the San Fernando / Tigre area. This is where we agreed to meet with the sailmaker, plus there are supposed to be some chandleries in the area.

As some of you know, the Rio de la Plata, or River of Silver, is shallow and there are some channels that are dredged to allow shipping to move. The direct route from Puerto Madero to San Fernando is 13 nautical mile (nm). It may only be transited with a rising tide and winds from the southeast as parts are only one meter in depth. We opted for caution and went the long route of 40 nm, through the dredged channels of Canal Mitre and Canal Honda. Our electronic charts only provided depths for Canal Mitre, a main shipping channel that continues to Paraguay. For Canal Honda, it was more Braille and a steady eye on the depth meter.

With less than 3 miles to go we ran aground. Conventional wisdom would say to stay near the center of a channel for the deepest water. Well, not in this case. Several powerboats went zipping by. One fellow in a small powerboat offered to help pull us to deeper water but his boat could not move us. A short time later another two powerboats, with English speakers, offered to help and there was success. The 5 meter depth was just a few feet away from the 1.3 meters that stopped Windarra in her tracks. With great relief and many thank you and gracias, we continued on. 

The original plan was to stop at Club Barlovento. I had been in contact with Lisa of SV Randivag about the club (thank you SV Joyant for the contact). Unfortunately communication (our Spanish failed us) with them over the VHF and telephone was not working so we went to YCA San Fernando instead. 

This is a large facility for over 300 boats in the water and 400 small powerboats stacked on shelves. It also has a full service yard with 2 travel lifts, a restaurant, bar, showers and swimming pools. We are med moored bow in but a little too far from shore so we need to call the lancha to get off the boat (and I am feeling too lazy to get the dingy off the foredeck).

We met Vivian, who is a lifeguard here at the pool. She works here 4 months of the year and spends the rest of her year living and working as crew on yachts in Europe. She speaks excellent English and she has been very helpful.

San Fernando is an upscale bedroom community for Buenos Aires. There are son beautiful homes but most have large, imposing fences and gates, each home a mini-fortress. A short walk away is a Carrefours super mercado. Yes a full store and not an express which we only found in downtown. 

As today is New Year's Day, everything is closed so we will stay aboard. Tomorrow we will explore some more.

Happy New Year, 2016 to all from Elaine and Rich