Sunday, December 29, 2013

Still at Coquimbo

 
We are still here, watching the gribs, waiting for the southerlies to decrease. In the meantime we are enjoying the sunshine, the wifi at the yacht club and meeting new friends.

Today we met Sebastián Canoras, his parents and their friends. Sebastian's father is a circumnavigator. They are also friends with Ginger and Peter, late of SV Marcy but now of SV Irene. Sebastian has been windsurfing in the Bahia passing by Windarra. We had a great conversation here on the patio. They have invited us over for New Years's eve. How cool is that!

Saturday, December 28, 2013

Coquimbo photos


Wooden church in downtown


Ramp to go up the hill, no cars though

Friday, December 27, 2013

Yachting Club de Herradura

29 58.781'S, 71 21.678'W

This morning we got the dingy inflated and went in to check into the yacht club. They are very welcoming and helpful. We get three days of free moorage and it will cost about $20 a day after that. We found out that they have a launch which will pick shuttle us to/from the boat. Wish we had known before we got the dingy out. Live and learn. The yacht club handles our check-in with the port captain as well.
Yachting Club de Herradura

Windarra at anchor
 
They called us a taxi so we could go into Coquimbo and see the folks at Entel, the company we are using for internet with the cell phone. With our limited Spanish and there was no one there that spoke English we did manage to get our phone up an working again. Unfortunately we only get 7Mb a day until January 1st and then we should have 120Mb. We will see.

We found a nice restaurant across the street for lunch and then we walked around town. In one plaza there was a nativity scene. Next to it was a tent blaring middle eastern music and a sign promoting the mosque in town. A little bit of everything.

We also saw ramps similar to Lombard Street in San Francisco leading farther up the hill. On top of the hill is a giant cross standing 93 meters high. It is supposed to have a museum as well.


Cheers

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Thursday, December 26, 2013

Day 8, Passage to Valparaiso, Bahia de Herradura

29 58.781'S, 71 21.678'W

We left Isla Damas this morning. Before we left we checked the gribs for our passage south to Valparaiso and decided that we should go to Coquimbo instead and wait for the winds to calm down farther south.

We are now anchored at Bahia de Herradura Guayacan with is bordering the peninsula where the city of Coquimbo is located. Even though we tried to reach the Armada and the Club de Yate on the radio we received no response. So we anchored near the club and will launch the dingy tomorrow to do our check in.

More to come...

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Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Day 7, Passage to Valpariso, Isla Damas

29 14.115'S, 71 31.310'W

We arrived at Isla Damas at 4:46 pm and promptly anchored. Rich fixed our drinks and we sat in the cockpit, enjoying the silence with no engine running and scanned the shoreline. No penguins so far but many sea birds.

 
Tonight we will enjoy a steak dinner and watch the DVD, "Love Actually". We are looking forward to a good night's sleep in our bed instead of the cockpit.

No sure if we will be leaving tomorrow or not, it depends on what we see in the gribs, but until then, it is time to relax.

Merry Christmas from Isla Damas, Chile!

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Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Day 6, Passage to Valparaiso

27 23.579'S, 71 04.500'W

We continue our travels south. We had more favorable winds today and were able to use the staysail and yankee. At times we were going up to 7.4 knots speed over the ground which helps offset the times were we were only doing 3.5 knots.

We hope to be at Isla Damas tomorrow around noon and we will stop there. It is supposed to have lots of wildlife include Humboldt penguins. I am not sure what they look like specifically but I guess we will find out.

We hope that everyone will have a restful and relaxing Christmas tomorrow and we miss you all and wish we were with you or that you were with us.

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Monday, December 23, 2013

Day 5, Passage to Valparaiso

25 15.214'S, 70 45.689'W

This morning after transmitting our position to the Chilean Armada, we left Caleta Blanco Encalada and headed south. We saw two whale blows, lots of birds for a while but then not much else. The hills along the shore are beige, gray and then the tops are the hills are reddish. There has been little in between.

We had a little arts and crafts time, whipping the ends of some triple braid that we use for docking or with mooring buoys. The line had chafed from the piling in Iquique and is now two lines. Rich looked in our book of knots for a suitable knot to join the two. He also made some leather straps to put on shackles to help open them.

We are heading towards Isla Damas. Our fallback is Puerto Caldera if the weather does not cooperate.

Cheers.

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Sunday, December 22, 2013

Day 4, Passage to Valparaiso, Caleta Blanco Encalada

24 22.108 S, 70 32.953 W

We got up at o'dark thirty or midnight and by 1 am we were up anchor and heading out. It was night an smooth compared to what we were experiencing earlier.

We have a new little hitchhiker, a small gecko, that was crawling around on the binnacle. Not sure where he is now. We have not seen him since this morning.

Today while Rich was tightening the main sheet, the part of the purchase that connects to the traveler detached and if Rich had not grabbed it quickly, the boom would have started to swing back and forth wildly. I saw the pin that had come off on deck and grabbed it and held the boom while Rich went to get some more split rings. This split ring that was there had somehow worked its way loose so that the pin slid out and the purchase came free. We reseated the pin and put in an new split ring. We will keep an eye on it. It is one of those things that you do not expect and luckily it happened during the day light so it was much easier to fix.

Another event for today is we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. The last time we crossed this was when we were doing our South Pacific crossing.

Now we are anchored at Caleta Blanco Encalada. There is not much here except a small fishing camp. The hillsides are stark and reddish in some parts. The Atacama desert is certainly a dry place
.

Cheers

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Saturday, December 21, 2013

Day 3, Passage to Valparaiso, Mejilliones

23 05.535 S, 70 27.083 W

Last night at 11 pm we pulled into Mejilliones del Sur and dropped anchor. The winds and seas were building and we were not making much headway. The gribs promised more of the same so we decided to stop and take a breather. This included a nights sleep, a shower, transferring fuel from some of the jerry cans into the aft tank, napping and reading.

The Port Captain at Mejilliones
 
The winds have piped up again in the harbor which has protection from the south so we will continue to monitor and check the gribs. We may just stay another night, who knows.

There is no need to be in a hurry.

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Friday, December 20, 2013

Day 2, Passage to Valparaiso

22 48.737 S, 70 33.942 W

We continue southward. Right now it is a slog, winds on the nose and seas building. We might duck into the harbor north of Isla Santa Maria and wait for it to die down a bit.

Other than that it has been a nice sunny day...

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Thursday, December 19, 2013

Day 1 Passage to Valparaiso

20 50.293 S, 70 17.715 W

This morning we went to the Armada and got our national zarpe for cruising in Chile. It did not take long but there was some discussion since we plan to be in country for a while and we were not just coming and going but no problem, everything is okay. Part of this is we will continue to send emails to the Armada, twice daily to let them know where we are and where we are going.

At 11:00 am we were anchor up and lines cast off from the dock at Yate Club Botes de Iquique, which is a great spot a short walk from the Armada, Aduana (customs) and the historic section of downtown. Patricio, the operator of the yacht club, helped with the lines. We passed several large sea lions swimming in the harbor, tossing fish and passed the container ships.

The landscape is barren and light brown, sand and rock. We could here the loud sound of jets landing at the airport south of south and reverberating against the hillside.

Our plan is to stop at either Isla Santa Maria or at Caleta Blanco Encalada.

cheers

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Day 1 Passage to Valparaiso

20 50.293 S, 70 17.715 W

This morning we went to the Armada and got our national zarpe for cruising in Chile. It did not take long but there was some discussion since we plan to be in country for a while and we were not just coming and going but no problem, everything is okay. Part of this is we will continue to send emails to the Armada, twice daily to let them know where we are and where we are going.

At 11:00 am we were anchor up and lines cast off from the dock at Yate Club Botes de Iquique, which is a great spot a short walk from the Armada, Aduana (customs) and the historic section of downtown. Patricio, the operator of the yacht club, helped with the lines. We passed several large sea lions swimming in the harbor, tossing fish and passed the container ships.

The landscape is barren and light brown, sand and rock. We could here the loud sound of jets landing at the airport south of south and reverberating against the hillside.

Our plan is to stop at either Isla Santa Maria or at Caleta Blanco Encalada.

cheers

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Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Photos of Iquique

Approaching the harbor of Iquique

Rita and Don of SV Limbo join us for lunch on the Plaza

 The plaza with the clock tower by Mr Eiffel 

Casablanca? No, a casino in Iquique
 
Esmeralda a plucky little Chilean corvette that challenged the Peruvian warships in the War of the Pacific
 
An Inca Tern

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Arrived at Iquique, Chile

20 12.516 S, 070 08.973 W

We are presently enjoying our CDA drinks as we have arrived at Iquique, Chile. The passage was 125.3 hours of motorsailing over 683 nautical miles. Whew!

Last night since we had crossed the border I started to send a "Position and Intention of Movement" email to the Chilean maritime authorities. Immediately after sending the email, I received an email back from them saying there was a weapons drill zone outside of Iquique and to avoid the area within these coordinates. Wouldn't you know it, our projected course went right through this area. So we had to make some course adjusts, nothing major, but definitely necessary. We followed a container ship from China into the port. Granted they arrived a lot earlier than us but we like to think that they swept up any nets or fishermen in the way.

We arrived at 2:40 pm, Lima time which is really 4:40 pm Chile time. So going south we lost two hours.

Windarra is anchored in the harbor near some tug boats. The officials from the Armada, Agriculture and Immigration left just a bit ago. Our passports are stamped and we have 90-day visas. (We have not been asked for any cash so far). Tomorrow we will go to Customs to do their paperwork and to see about getting a temporary import permit for the boat. We will also try to move into the yacht club.

Iquique is a larger city than I expected. It is also a cruise ship port as well as a container port. It once was a major center for the shipment of nitrates for fertilizer before fertilizer was made from oil and the market for nitrates drop out.

We are glad to have the engine off and be in a new country.

Stay tuned....

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Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Passage to Iquique, Chile, Day 5

18 44.862 S, 71 08.146 W

At 9:44 am this morning we left the territorial waters of Peru and entered the waters of Chile when we crossed 18 00.000 S.

Since then the seas have become more choppy and the wind has increased to as much as 14 knots. Trying to do something below such as washing dishes it a bit of a challenge but doable. We have seen a number of small fishing boats with an outboard motor and a small cabin like structure on the front. Of course we hope that they will not be out tonight as it was difficult to see them in these seas during the day light, it will be even more difficult at night.

Our current ETA to Iquique is 17:42 UTC tomorrow, 12/11. We are looking forward to arriving.

Cheers from Chile

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Monday, December 9, 2013

Passage to Iquique, Chile, Day 4

17 14.032 S, 72 30.421 W

Today was more of the same, as we continue to motorsail south.

This morning around 4:30 am, during my watch, I saw something out of the corner of my eye, near the midship cleat on the starboard side. It was the cormorant, sleeping with his head tucked around on his back, weaving back and forth on his webbed feet. We let him stay for a while but then he started to move toward the aft deck. He had pooped enough, thank you and it was time for him to shove off.

So we shooed him away. In a little bit he returns and tries to land on the port side solar panel. Nope, this is not a cormorant landing zone. He flew off again, circled around and landed on the mainsail on the boom. No! Get off you silly bird. He landed on the deck and tried to waddle forward. Off we said. Finally he got the hint.

We hope we do not pick up any more hitchhikers....

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Sunday, December 8, 2013

Passage to Iquique, Chile, Day 3

16 04.132 S, 74 28.592 W

The passage continues.

Today we picked up a hitchhiker or should I say it dropped onto us. A cormorant flew by and landed on the dingy on the foredeck. When we are on long passages like this one, the dingy is deflated and stowed upside down under the staysail. The cormorant landed and slid around on the dingy due to the rocking on the boat so it opted to hop onto the deck and started to preen and adjust its feathers. This was around 1 pm. It is now 7:45 pm and he is still there. We unfurled the staysail above it but it just stayed there, unperturbed. We wonder how long it will stay and get a ride.

Does it know we are going to Chile?

 
Just before it got dark we saw a large fishing trawler, then we saw the black flag with a buoy floating in the water. We changed course to give it a wide berth. Hopefully that will be the only one we encounter tonight. How is it we see nothing all day long but that as soon as it started to get dark, they appear.

Hopefully the evening watch will be uneventful....

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Saturday, December 7, 2013

Passage to Iquique, Chile, Day 2

14 35.043 S, 76 14.002 W

Today was more of the same, motor sailing, but we were able to use the staysail and yankee as well, which helped reduce our fuel consumption. The winds go as high as 9 knots at one point and the sea was relatively calm with just slow swells and no wind waves at all. We saw lots of dolphins, boobies, seals, sea lions and pelicans all fishing.

Beyond us was busy with container ship traffic. One ship was even going to Iquique. We did not ask for a tow.

Not much to report, which I guess is a good thing.

Cheers

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Friday, December 6, 2013

On the road again.... day 1 to Iquique

12 40.693 S, 77 04.650 W

This morning we dropped our moorings and left Yacht Club Peruano and La Punta. The folks at the yacht club were great. The facilities at La Punta make it a wonderful place for the cruiser to stop and we are glad that we did.

We called the yacht club in the morning and gave them the number on our international zarpe. I then called TRAMAR and gave them our information as well. They wished us bon voyage.

Now, like the words of the Willie Nelson song, we are 'on the road again', heading south. So far it has been a motorsail with winds more or less on the nose and some current. The swells are 1-2 meters, at 10 seconds, with less than a foot of wind waves. Early on we saw some fishing boats but none since dusk. We saw lots of boobies diving into the water in large groups like kamekazis, plus some sea lions and a few dolphins would swim by, maybe thanking us for the fish, we are not sure.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

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Thursday, December 5, 2013

Checking in and out of Peru





Note: this entry is out of order and will be moved to December, 2013 to be in sequence. Sorry for any confusion.

Before leaving for Peru we read entries at www.noonsite.comwww.ssca.org as well as blogs from cruisers that had gone to Peru. 

I contacted Gonzalo Ravago, the SSCA cruising station representative as well. He sent me a copy of the Callao Region Sanitary Fees, with two documents highlighted; Ortogamiento de Libre Platica, with a fee of S/862.40 at check in and Patente Sanitaria, with a fee of S/861.50 at check out. As the Peruvian Nuevo Sol is about $0.36, this is $308.07 and $307.75, respectively. Gonzalo would also put me in touch with an agent to handle the process which we estimated to be $400 to check in and out. Certainly this is much more expensive than any of the 14 or so countries we have visited in the last 13 years but at least we knew up front. Gonzalo warned us not to stop or check in at Paita, Salaverry or Chimbote as they are fishing and container ship centers and not oriented towards cruising yachts. He also sent us information on notifying TRAMAR when we enter Peruvian waters. In addition, we sent emails to TRAMAR twice daily, at 8:00 am and 8:00 pm, notifying them of our currently location, heading and speed during our passage to and from Peru. 

This is an example of the email:
----------------------------start of email---------------------------

1. La tripulacion
Sienda la tripulacion de este yate como sigue:
NOMBRE                NACIONALIDAD   PASAPORTE# CARGO        EDAD:
A BORDA:
John P. Jones.             USA                    987654321       Capitan        Xx
Jane Q. Jones.            USA                    123456789       Marinera       YY

2. Rol de pasajeros
Zero/0

4. Declaracion General
John P. Jones, Capitan del yate de placer "Valiant", de la matricula numero 1234567 de Hometown, Washington, USA,
del port de 24 toneladas brutas y de 22 netas. Radio Call Sign: XYZ1234.

5. Mensaje - Planear ruta
FECHA     HORA  LATITUD   LONGITUD  RUMBO   VELOCIDAD
11/09/13 07:55  03 21.1'S  080 50.9' W     203            4.2 knots
11/09/13 07:26  03 19.5'S  080 50.4 W      196            4.6 knots <- when entered Peruvian waters

COMENTARIO                                FECHA y HORA (ETA)
Enroute: La Punta, Callao, Peru       11/16/2013 16:00

6. Nota.

----------------------------end of email---------------------------

When we were approaching Callao, we hailed TRAMAR on channel 16 when we were 20 miles out but no answer. We tried at again at 10 miles out and received a response and were able to converse in English and get directions for our entry. There is a lot of container ship traffic to and from Callao, and having AIS was very helpful. After passing the RACON X sea buoy we contacted TRAMAR and then called Yacht Club Peruano on channel 68 and indicated that as it was dark and7:30 pm on a Saturday night that we would anchor nearby and pick up a mooring buoy in the morning. At 8:30 pm, a launch from the yacht club came by and told us we need to move to a mooring, so up anchor and we managed to grab the painter for the mooring and secure the boat. 

The agent, Jorge Luis Romero Gardella, called on VHF, informing us that he would be arriving at Windarra at 9:30 pm to sign the paperwork. When he did not arrive by 11:00 pm we went to bed. At 1:00 am there was a loud knocking on the hull. Jorge had arrived with 3 officials. We quickly dressed and invited them on board. We had copies of all of our paperwork including boat document, passports, yellow fever vaccine certificates and documents from Ecuador including Zarpe and Sanitario de Bordo, as well as a printout from Airmail listing all of the emails I had sent to TRAMAR, and a copy of the last email which they asked for during the signing. All of the conversation is taking place in Spanish with Jorge speaking only a few words of English. They were impressed with our boat stamp and on every piece of paperwork, Rich would stamp and sign it. Everything seemed to be going well until the doctor representing Sanitation would not accept the Sanitario de Bordo from Ecuador. He wanted some other document. We tried to understand what he wanted but with not much success. Jorge indicated that it was another document on the list of Callao Region Sanitary Fees that Gonzalo had sent. The fee for this, the Certificado de Control de Sanidad de Bordo is S/1599.10 or $576.50. Instead of further discussion we just said okay but there was no transfer of funds at this point. Jorge would take our passports and return them to us, later on Sunday and the officials and Jorge departed. It was now about 3:00 am after a 10 day passage and we were ready for some sleep.

Over the nineteen days that we were at La Punta, our check in and check out was worked. Jorge did get our passports stamped, with our tourist visas and Ortogamiento de Libre Platica to us. As he does not speak a lot of English, I would translate emails into Spanish to try to communicate with him. This had some success but he would sometimes show up at the boat completely unannounced.  Another cruiser, Don and Rita of SV Limbo who had arrived a few months earlier were also having difficulties of a similar nature. Gonzalo interceded for all of us and helped with the issues with Sanitation and Jorge. As a result, we did not pay for nor receive a Certificado de Control de Sanidad de Bordo. We did give Jorge S/1723.90 for the two documents and he signed a receipt for us. Jorge did try to rattle us by claiming that the cost for checking out could be between $2500 and $3000 and that it was at the whim of the port captain. We did not rise to the bait but just passed the information on to Gonzalo.

Don and Rita left a week before us and this helped test the check out process. 

For checking out we gave Jorge notice on Monday that we wanted to leave earlyThursday morning. I typed up a sailing plan for our passage from Callao to Iquique, Chile and sent this to Gonzalo who forward it to Jorge as this is required by the authorities. Thursday around 10:00 am, Jorge called and wanted to meet us at the yacht club to sign the paperwork. We brought our stamp and passports and the signing and stamping began. 

Afterwards, Jorge left and we enjoyed a great lunch at the yacht club with Gonzalo as we waited for him to return. After lunch, Jorge returned and Gonzalo reviewed our documents. Our passports had been signed, and we had our international Zarpe to leave Peru. We never did get a Patente Sanitaria, but Gonzalo indicated that we could leave without it. Gonzalo negotiated with Jorge and we paid him S/840 or $300. We did not leave until Friday morning.

Behind the scenes Gonzalo worked with Jorge and talked with the officials. We signed a letter drafted by Jorge on our behalf indicating that we did not find the Certificado de Control de Sanidad de Bordo necessary and we would not pay for it. SV Limbo did the same thing. Gonzalo has also been in contact with a local television station that wants to do a story on this. It is unfortunate that a few look to line their pockets. With this exception we found the Yacht Club Peruano and La Punta an excellent place for cruisers to stop and we enjoyed our stay there. We understand why Peru is written about so poorly in the cruising guides and websites and it is a shame because La Punta is a great cruiser stop.

If you are planning to sailing to Peru, I would strongly advise you to contact Gonzalo beforehand and coordinate with him to help smooth the process and to make sure you understand what is required. I can't imagine what this would have been like if we had not contacted Gonzalo a priori. 

We hope that Gonzalo and the Yacht Cub will be successful in establishing a well defined, consistent procedure and cost for checking in and out of cruising yachts. It would make stopping at La Punta, Peru and Yacht Club Peruano even more worthwhile.

Elaine and Rich
SV Windarra

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

More photos of Peru

We took a taxi into Miraflores and went to the Larcomar shopping center which is built into the cliff. It has a gorgeous view. It is small but very similar to Bellevue Square, ie upscale. We bought an alpaca throw and a scarf.



They even have skeeball.



This is a view of the moorings from the beach. Even though the beach has no sand and is covered with rocks it is very popular.

Monday, December 2, 2013

La Punta and Lima


Rich and I get a ride on a launch from the boat into the yacht club. This is nice since we do not have to inflate the dingy. There are 350 boats in the mooring field.


The Yacht Club Peruano is over 150 years old. It has been visited by notable sailors such as Tristan Jones and now us.


La Punta is a bedroom community with many beautiful and historic home such as these on the esplanade.

We grabbed a bus to Plaza San Miguel and then a taxi into Plaza de Armes of historic downtown Lima. Our taxi driver was a bit mischievous. He would drive up close to the side of another car, reach his hand out an bump it. The driver of the other vehicle would immediately start looking around trying to figure out who hit his car and if he had been rear-ended. Our driver would look innocently back. He did this several times. Once the other car stopped and the driver was sure he had been rear-ended as we quickly drove away.

We watched the changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace with much pomp and circumstance. Also on the same plaza is the Cathedral of Lima and the Palace of the Archbishop. We toured through both site which date to 1535 and much older than anything in the United States. 

Here are a few pictures of La Punta and Lima.

Rich and I get a ride on a launch from the boat into the yacht club. This is nice since we do not have to inflate the dingy.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Lunch at Gonzalo's, Dec 1

It is not everyday that you get to have lunch at the Sri Lankan consul in Peru but this afternoon was special. 
 
For us, Gonzalo Ravago is the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) representative for Lima/Callao, Peru. The SSCA is an organization which focuses on maintaining a clean wake and a tradition of emphasizing world wide camaraderie. Before we left to go cruising in 2001 we became members and with excitement we read the monthly bulletins where cruisers would describe their adventures. "In the late seventies, the SSCA began developing a worldwide network of 'cruising stations', a facility or person(s) dedicated to helping cruisers and greeting newcomers sailing into their port with a friendly hand offering hospitality. A warm welcome upon arrival in a new port and a place to turn to for assistance in any situation is a wonderful thing to offer our members." 

This describes Gonzalo's role for us. We contacted him before we left Ecuador. He helped transport a replacement electronic part from the US where he was on business travel to Peru so we could install it when we arrived. He assisted us with our agent on checking in to and out of Peru, as well as coordinating with the Yacht Club Peruano and answering my emails before we arrived.

He is a man who wears many hats, such as also being  the honorary Peruvian consul to Sri Lanka, so the front room at his house is his office and the Sri Lankan consul, complete with pictures of the president of Sri Lanka and their flag. Gonzalo also owns a cosmetic and a costume jewelry company. He is a sailor (J-24 and a 36 ft sailboat) and proud father of a delightful family.

He invited us over for lunch with his family and a few friends. His wife, Magdala, is a wonderful hostess who welcomed us and offered a delicious lunch of "chifa" or Peruvian style Chinese food. Their daughter, also named Magdala, is attending university and studying industrial engineering. Gonzalo jr, their son, is 11 and excited about airplanes as well as being a whiz at the flight simulator on his iPad. Ignacio de la Piedra who is an economist with a computer engineering background from Notre Dame in the US joined us with his 6 year old twin daughters, and a son a little older than Gonzalo jr. Our group was rounded out with Eduardo Montenegro and his wife, Jenny Montori. Eduardo is the consul from Malta to Peru and a member of the Order of St. John. 
 
Ignacio's son, Ignacio, Elaine, Rich, Eduardo, Magdala, Gonzalo
Front row: Ignacio's twin daughters, Gonzalo Jr.
 
The afternoon was full of conversation on all sorts of topics from engineering to airplanes to Templars and the Order of St John to exploits of being a consul. We had a great time and will remember it as one of the highlights of our visit to Peru.

Thank you to Gonzalo and your family for your hospitality, your friendship and making Peru be alive. 

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Beautiful La Punta

We think we are checked into Peru. It is a long story that is not over yet so I will wait and put t in another blog entry.

For those of you who are interested in numbers, here are the numbers for the passage:
Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador to La Punta, Peru including 2 stops; Salinas, Ecuador for 6 hours to check the hot water heater and to see about getting fuel, which we did not, Islas Lobos de Afuera, Peru for 2 hours to change the fuel filter and move some fuel from Jerry cans to aft tank.
Total passage time: 9 days, 5 hours, 15 minutes or 221 hours, 15 minutes, from Nov. 7 to Nov 16.
Of that, we spent 142 hours sailing, 79 hours motor sailing or motoring. Total distance traveled was 1004 nautical miles. Maximum winds was 23 knots around Cabo Blanco.

For the last few days we have been catching up on sleep and exploring. We met Don and Rita of SV Limbo and they have been showing us around.

La Punta is a small bedroom community that is home to a naval school as well as the Yacht Club Peruano. It has many restaurants with in easy walking distance. There are two laundries, one by the kilo (s/5 per kilo) and the other by the piece (not sure of the price). The small business section a block from the yacht club includes a bank with ATM, 2 pharmacies, a vegetable market, a money exchange and a cafeteria with a bakery (over the top eclairs). La Punta is very clean and safe and the homes are well maintained. Some of the architecture is quite old, such as the yacht club but others are a modern mix of glass and wood.

One block farther you may catch a 'micro', pronounced 'mecro' or a small bus to La Marina and the shopping mall at Plaza San Miguel for s/1. The mall is in two parts and includes one combination store similar to a Walmart plus a Home Depot, a Starbucks, and a TGIFridays. Across the street is the other mall with another large hardware store called Maestro, plus upscale clothing stores like Levi's, Pierre Cardin, etc. We found a Claro shop so we now have Claro Peru sim cards in our iphones for internet. No joy for the ipad though. Next to this is Wong's a higher end grocery store that has many items you would find in the states.

Yesterday we walked with Don and Rita to the fish, produce and everything else market. We bought two 10 gallons Jerry cans to add to Windarra for s/40 or $14. The everything else market is full of small stalls that have any and everything from jewelry to tennis shoes to plastic good like our Jerry cans to clothing.

Today we moved to a mooring that has power so we may deep charge our batteries. We are tied to two buoys. The aft buoy has a power stand with an outlet for 110v and 220v. We are plugged into 110v and the electrician had to switch the polarity as it was reversed. Rich is wiring our connection to 220v and using a ProMariner charger we will be able to charge the batteries using 220v, which is more common in South America.

We are working through our boat chores what we need to do before leaving for Chile. I have been researching what food items we may not bring into Chile so we provision appropriately before we leave.

Gonzalo Ravago is the Seven Seas Cruising Association contact for Callao/Lima. We have been in contact with him since before we left Ecuador and he has been extremely helpful. He even assisted us getting an electronic part in from the US.

That is all for now. I will try to post some photos.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Day 10, We're here

12 3.820 S, 077 09.934 W
Yacht Club Peruano, Callao, Peru

We finally arrived at Yacht Club Peruano, La Punta, Callao, Peru. Now we are having our CDA drinks as we sit on a mooring waiting for our agent, Jorge, to arrive to pick up our paperwork so that he may check us into the country.

It feels good have arrived. Today was a long motor but very uneventful except for watching the huge flocks of birds head out to the fishing grounds. We were able to communicate with TRAMAR vessel traffic control for Callao. At first they did not answer when we were 20 miles out but they did at 10 miles. Per their instructions we passed the sea buoy for traffic separation into Callao and as Rich was about to call on the VHF they called to verify that we had passed the buoy.

We anchored near the mooring field for the yacht club and took our showers. As I was drying off, the launch came by and told us we had to move to a mooring. We tried to plead being tired but they would not have it so we moved in the dark and I managed to snag the mooring line with the boat hook on the second pass.

Both of us are looking forward to dinner and a good nights sleep in our bed. I put the quilt on the bed as well. This is the first time we will be sleeping with more than just a sheet on the bed in the boat since we left the United States in 2011.

But for now, we are safe and secure after our passage of 10 days and 1005 nautical miles.

Adios amigos.

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Friday, November 15, 2013

Day 9, Passage to Callao

10 35.220 S, 78 16.622 W

We are still not there yet. We are about 106 nautical miles short of the vessel traffic control lanes for Callao and another 8 nm to La Punta and the Yacht Club Peruano where we will get a mooring.

Today has been a bumpy ride into winds and seas on our nose. Now the winds have piped up to 16-19 knots so we are going even slower. Our original course was about 800 nm from Bahia de Caraquez to Callao, Peru. So far we have covered 885 and still have over 106 to go. It seems like the closer we get the farther way it is.

But we have a full moon tonight and hopefully no fishing traffic to dodge.

Cheers

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Thursday, November 14, 2013

Day 8, Passage to Callao

09 31.560 S, 78 46.761 W

Today was a day of mostly motorsailing. It was a good thing we had the motor running as the fishing fleet decided it was time to come in. It was like rush hour on the freeway. Unfortunately you can not be sure that some one is at the helm besides the autopilot. As we were going 90 degrees to their path we had to speed up or slow down as they passed.

We saw hundreds of birds in large flocks heading out to the fishing grounds and back again. They looked like swarms of bees. Flight schools of pelicans with at least 30 birds in a class.

We are so looking forward to arriving in Callao. Passaging is going well, the weather has been moderate, we could wish for wind from a direction other than from the south but slim chances of that but we are ready to be there. In the meantime we enjoyed fresh baked blueberry muffins for breakfast so life is not too bad.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

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Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Day 7, Passage to Peru

08 25.642 S, 79 38.335 W, 11/13/2013 7:36 pm

We are doing well. Motoring when there is little wind, sailing when we can to save fuel.

Today we saw hundreds of dolphins surrounding a school of fish, leaping, chasing through the water, jumping out of the water and splashing. The water was frothy with their activity. It was very amazing to watch.

This afternoon I made some macaroni and cheese for our afternoon repast. We used our new Starbucks mugs that we got in Peru. I have the Peru cup with a photograph of Machu Picchu on it. Rich has the Cusco cup with the Inca site of Saqsayhuaman on it.

We get excited about simple things when we are on passage....

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Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Day 6, Passage to Callao, a pit stop, 11/12

06 55.579 S, 08 42.816 W, Islas Lobos de Afuerta

This morning during my 3 am - 6 am watch, the wind continued to back down until our speed over the ground bottomed out at 0.0 knots and stayed there. We were not going anywhere. The wind would pick up a little and the boat would move along a .5 knots, then back to 0.0 knots. Rich and I decided that it was time to turn the engine on. Sixteen nautical miles away was Islas Lobos de Auerta, a nature reserve, which also had a place to anchor, according to the Publication 125, Sailing Directions (Enroute) West Coast of South America, Eighth Edition, 2004. We need to change our engine fuel filter and transfer some fuel from the Jerry cans on deck to the fuel tanks anyway, so why not go there, stop for a bit to do these chores and then continue on.

So we did. The group of small islands that for. Islas Lobos de Afuerta are brown, barren rocks, home to no man but home to whales, sea lions, pelicans, boobies. frigate birds plus many more sea birds that I don't know the names of. There is a cacophony of sounds plus the stench of guano. The sailing directions mention that the island was reported (in 1992) to lie 1.4 miles west of its charted position. It is true, both of our electronic charts, C-Map and Navionics Gold, had us traversing overland to our anchor spot in 24 meters of water. One would have thought that sometime between 1992 and 2013, that this would have been corrected on the electronic charts but sad to say it has not been. The holding was a combination of sand and rock with some sea grass.

As Rich worked on changing the filter, I checked out the local inhabitants and monitored our position. Several large whales came nearby, within two boat lengths, would blow and then dive and come back again. There were at least 5 individuals. A large bull sea lion escorting his harem swam by and barked a few times for good measure. A group of younger sea lions swam by and would pop their heads up to take a look at us. Large flocks of sea birds would fly on masse to their island nesting grounds. An open panga full of fishermen drifted by as they cast their nets. Rich saw them haul in a large fish, beat it with a club and then stow it in the large container they had on board. It looked like there were some trails on the islands as well. I did not see a place to land a dingy from our position at anchor.

We moved about 6 Jerry cans of fuel to the aft tank and then prepared to be on our way, just as a large whale surfaced nearby. Rich slowly motored us back out into open waters as we continued to head for Callao.

There are no cruising guide books for Peru. We got advice not to enter certain ports and to only check in at Callao. We did receive a suggestion to stop at Islas Lobos de Afuerta and it was convenient for us to make our stop there. The smell of guano would discourage me from making this an overnight stop. You may use the GPS position listed above at your own risk.

The sailing directions mention some other islands as well but right now we are looking forward to arriving in Callao.

Sent from SV Windarra iPad

Day 6, Passage to Callao

07 09.893 S, 080 14.838 W

Today we made a stop at Islas Lobos de Afuerta. It is a nature reserve made of a group of small islands. The only inhabitants are sea lions, pelicans, boobies, frigate birds and other sea birds. In the anchorage we saw several whales. It still makes me feel anxious when a mammal the size of our boat surfaces less than 2 boat lengths away.

We stopped so that Rich could change the fuel filter on the engine and so we could transfer some diesel from the jerry cans to the aft fuel tank.

I have a longer blog entry on this that I will post when we have internet.

Anyway, we are doing well. Of course we wish we were at Callao already but so far so good.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

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Monday, November 11, 2013

Day 5, Passage to Callao

06 31.011 S. 80 10.790 W

We are around both capes, Cabo Blanco and Punta Arujes (spelling?) We have been sailing as much as possible to conserve fuel. Since the predominant winds and current are from the south and the direction we want to go, we need to tack back and forth, which means we have to go farther. Callao seems to be getting farther, the closer we try to get to it. We have traveled just about 500 miles. Our original sail plan estimated about 810 nautical miles from Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador to Callao, Peru, which assumed we could sail directly on our plan. Unfortunately, that has not been the case. Having sailed 500 nm, we should have only 810 left but no so, it is more like 415 or so. I know we will get there, some time...

Late this afternoon as we were preparing to reef the main sail, it was feeding time for the dolphins and the frigate birds. The dolphins swam by the bow to say hi and then they would shoot over and you would see lots of activity in the water. The frigate birds would circle and then suddenly dive head first into the water, one after another, like a bombing run. It was amazing to see and then it was over as quickly as it had started.

Cheers

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Sunday, November 10, 2013

Day 4, Passage to Callao

05 05.370 S, 81 28.110 W

We made it around Cabo Blanco. It was a little tough at the end as there were all sorts of fishermen with nets which are lit with lights that flash red, green and white. We wish we could tell where was the end of the row. At one point we tried to go around a net following the lights only to run over it instead. Luckily we did not get caught on it.

Today we have been sailing as much as possible to conserve fuel. Just before I came down to do these entries, the speed log stopped working. This is frustrating as now we don't know how we are being affected by the current. So far it has been minimal but now we will not know at all.

We have one more cape to go around and then it should be 'smooth sailing', or something like that.

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Saturday, November 9, 2013

Day 3, in Peruvian waters

04 01.894 S, 81 15.761 W

We had 24 hours of great sailing, favorable current, good weather, reasonable seas. Now we are trying to get around Cabo Blanco and I am trying to remember what those 24 hours were like since now it is dark, large confused seas, gusty winds, etc.

Looking forward to being around the cape...

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Friday, November 8, 2013

Day 2 passage to Callao, Peru

02 32.247 S, 80 56.533 W

This morning we made a brief stop at Salinas. We were seeing a leak in the aft head and we wanted to check it out. It turned out to be a fitting on the top of the water heater was failing and leaking. Rich tightened it up but we will have to make a better repair in Callao. It is not a) life threatening, b) engine threatening, c) serious and d) something we can't live with. As we have been motorsailing so far, we thought we would quickly stop in and buy some more diesel. It was a good thought but when we went to the marina and found out that we had to have an agent and that we would have to check back into Ecuador, buy fuel and then check out again with at least a charge of $200 plus the agent's fee of $50 with no assurance that there would be no other fees and that this could be accomplished today so we could continue to Peru, we decided that we did not need the extra fuel and we could continue.

The whole stop cost us a few hours of time but we got to see one of the submarines of the Ecuadorian Navy. Now we are sailing across the Golfo de Guayaquil, conserving fuel and heading to Peru.

Cheers

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Thursday, November 7, 2013

first night to Callao, Peru

01 14.092 S, 80 52.726 W

Our pilot, Pedro, was late this morning so we did not leave until 6:15 am. Chuck and Linda on SV Jacaranda followed us close behind. After we let off Pedro, we turn south to Peru and Jacaranda turned the opposite direction to Panama.

So far we have been motorsailing with the main and staysail. Winds have varied between 12 and 19 knots and we are close hauled. The setting current has been between .5 and 1 knot. This evening the current has slackened and the wind is not on our nose as much so we are making about 5 knots speed over the ground.
we have traveled about 60 miles since this morning. Just a little under 750 to go.

Cheers

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Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Heading south

This is just a quick note to let you know we are leaving Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador for Callao, Peru tomorrow morning at 5:30 am to catch the rising tide to cross the bar. Our friends Chuck and Linda of SV Jacaranda are leaving at the same time but they are headed to Panama.

Tuesday we caught a ride with Geovanny the taxi driver to the town of Manta, an hour and 15 minute drive from here. Geovanny handled taking our paperwork and passports to immigration to get them stamped. Meanwhile Rich and I did some provisioning at two of the large grocery stores. Now we have food for our journey southward. We treated him to lunch and practiced our Spanish skills. We are getting better and were able to find out about his two kids, a lawyer and a doctor, who both live in Guayaquil along with his two grandchildren. Geovanny drives not only to Manta but to Guayaquil at least three times a week. We wish we had known about him when we got lost with Cristobal.

Anyway, Windarra is prepared and hopefully we are too. It is a little over 800 miles but we will be going against the Humboldt current and into the wind as well so it may be a longer trip. We are guessing about 8-10 days but we will see.

I will try to send some reports along the way. Once we cross into Peruvian waters we need to report into Tramar at 8 am and 8 pm every day.

Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Friday, October 25, 2013

Back on Windarra

We flew back to Guayaquil on Tuesday, 10/22. It was good to get back to sea level. Wednesday we got the Reina de Camino bus to Bahia de Caraquez, Puerto Amistad and Windarra. It is good to be back on the boat and sleep in our own bed. We are back to wearing shorts and tshirts after jeans, turtle neck shirts and fleece jackets of Cusco, Peru.
 
I published a trip report for Machu Picchu and Cusco for folks who might be interested in taking an inland trip. We were limited on time so we chose to fly to Cusco.
 
If you are interested in details of our trip to Cuenca, please send me an email and I will write up a trip report for that.
 
Now it is time to do some boat chores to prepare for sailing down the coast.
 
Cheers,
Elaine and Rich

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Sacred Valley Tour, 10/19

Friday, 10/18, we took the afternoon train back to Cusco. The taxi driver was there waiting with a sign with our names. We were ready to go to crash when we returned to Tayta Wasi Hostel.

Saturday at 8:15 am seemed early but we were in the lobby waiting for our bus tour of the Sacred Valley. We assumed that valley meant a place lower than Cusco, which was only partially true. Our first stop was the Pisac ruins. This particular Inca site is known for its rows and rows of terraces, unbroken by stairs. Stairs would require maintenance and would be affected by erosion. Instead, flags stones were built into the terrace walls as stairs. Until recently crops were grown in the terraces but as part of the UNESCO world heritage site agreement, farming has been stopped to avoid any damage to the walls. We hiked to a hut at the top of one part of the site, passed a cliff face dotted with holes. This was an Inca Cemetary and remains were found inside, some of which had been plundered by robbers looking for golden treasures. This site guarded the Urubamba valley and a pass leading into the jungle in the northeast. On the way back down to the valley the bus stopped in Pisac in case anyone wanted to buy any souvenirs. We saw three little girls in Quechua costumes, carrying baby goats and lambs, offering to pose for picture for some coins from the tourists.

After a long ride through the valley we stopped for a buffet lunch. 2 of our fellow tour mates were from Valparaiso, Chile, so we has some conversation with them.

Back on the bus and on to Ollantaytambo ruins. This site also has the characteristic terracing, similar to Pisac as well as a religious section on top where large stones were quarried from 6 km away, dragged across a river and then hauled up a ramp to the top. The stones are very smooth and very few markings are left. After the defeat of the Manca Inca at Saqsayhuaman, they retreated to this site. The Spanish were unable to scale the terraces under the rain of arrows and spears from above. To further defeat the Spanish, the Inca flooded the lands below and the Conquistadors and their horses were helplessly mired in mud. The victory was short lived and the Spanish returned in greater force and the Manca retreated to Vilcabamba.

Our next and final stop was Chinchero at 12,342 ft. There are more Inca ruins here but we were here to see more of the Quechua culture up close. 4 women, in full traditional Quechua garb welcomed us and demonstrate some of their culture. There is a plant that they use for soap and for washing their hair which they grate and mix with water and it produces suds like you would get from dish soap. They put in some raw sheep wool and it went from a dirty brown to a clean white. They also claim it prevents grey hair which might be true as I have not seen a single Quechua woman with grey hair. Other things they demonstrated was dying wool and hand spinning. Some of their weaving is very creative. Of course they also sold souvenirs but I guess that is all part of the deal.

We returned to our hostel tired from the long day and the altitudes and crawled under our mass of blankets.

Sent from SV Windarra iPad

Thursday, October 17, 2013

Machu Picchu 10/17

13 09.460 S, 72 32.420 W, elevation 7970 feet

Machu Picchu means "Old Mountain", in the Quechua language of the indigenous people's of the Andes, the Incas. Wayna Picchu, the mountain you see in the post card pictures, means "Young Mountain".


This morning after breakfast we walked down the hill to the bus station and waited in line with everyone else who had arrived the night before and had not gotten up at the crack of dawn. It did not take long as the buses were continually pulling up to engorge more passengers. The ride up to the site takes about half an hour up several switchbacks. The town and river below getting smaller and smaller. The road is basically dirt with cobblestones around the curves to keep the road from becoming rutted. There were workers on the road filling in the potholes. Guardrails are few and far between and there were established pullout areas for when we met oncoming buses going down to pick up more tourists. We thought the road was pretty good especially compared to the Copper Canyon in Mexico. 

We arrived just before 8:00 am and looked for someone holding a white flag which would indicate our guide. The bus unloads just in front of the only hotel that is at the site itself. It has a small restaurant which is open for lunch for non hotel guests but we did not check it out. Each bus load of people try to pair up to guides and then go through the entrance where they stamp your ticket.

We found our guides and went through the gate and then started up the 100 meter footpath to the view point where you can take the classic postcard photograph and then climb a zigzagging staircase to enter the complex and to the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock. Our group had both Spanish, French and English speakers so we split up. We went with the English speaking guide, Saul, along with the French folks. Saul is of Inca descent and has been a guide at Machu Picchu and the Inca trail for seven years. He took us off the main path to an area where we could sit down and rest and he could explain about the site without having to shout over other guides. 

It took about 80 years to build the complex. I call it that since the name Machu Picchu refers to the mountain, not to the city below and we do not know the name. 80 years represents the time the Incas started to build on the site until they abandoned it when they were conquered by the Spanish, at which time building had not been completed and the Incas destroyed parts of the Inca trail leading up to the site so that the Spanish would not find it. During Inca times, everyone, 16 to 65 years old, paid taxes, this could be in the form of good or services. To pay one's taxes, one would work on the construction of the complex for 3 months a year and before returning to their families. Over 20,000 people worked on the building of the complex at any one time. Workers were provided with food, a place to stay, music and plenty of coca leaves to keep them working all day long,

The complex provided housing for 500 royalty, priests, etc, on a permanent basis. Others may come to stay at the site temporarily for say religious ceremonies. We don't know the true purpose of the site. There is speculation that it might have been similar to a university where students would come to learn science, engineering, astronomy or agriculture or it might have been a religious or astronomy center as there are sacred stones as at other sites to determine the winter solstice. Other theories say it was a city of virgins or that it was built by aliens of the outer space kind. I think the university idea is good. Our guide also told us that the agriculture plots on the terraces were growing species of plants that were hybrids of plants commonly used in the region. Each terrace has a drainage system which allows the water to flow out, prevent erosion and the growing area from becoming waterlogged in the rainy season. 

Llamas, a sacred animal of the Incas, have some run of the place so occasionally you need to watch your step. 

It is hard to describe the place and not repeat what others have said. It does seem mystic or magical. A real estate agent would repeat the words, "Location, location, location". The site has access to spring water, commanding views of the valleys below, a climate such that food plants grow well and a supply of people in Cusco and the Sacred Valley in between to build and support the complex.

We hiked over much of the site. We decided to pass on the 2 hour climb up Wayna Picchu or the 1 1/2 hour climb up Machu Picchu. Just hiking in the main complex requires concentration as the rocks in the path are not even, nor are the risers in the stairs. I imagine the architect telling the king that this would be done in the final phases after years 80, 81, 82....

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Aguas Calientes, 10/16

13 10.538 S, 072 35.752 W

At kilometer 86

We were up early and packed to meet our taxi ride to the train station at Poroy. We drove high up into the hill surrounding Cusco to find the pass to the next valley where Poroy is located. The train boards at 7:12 am and left the station on time at 7:42. It was full. There was a couple from Mexico across from us, some gentlemen from Korea in front plus many others. This was the Expedition train, $68 per person, one way.

The train wove through valleys where corn stalk were predominant. Homes were simple structures of mud and straw bricks with corrugated metal roofs. We saw pigs and piglets, sheep, cows, chickens, and dogs. The train passed through the towns of Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo, on the way to Aguas Calientes, the end of the line before Machu Picchu. We saw more Inca ruins along the way. Before Ollantaytambo we saw 3 dwellings precariously perched on the side of a mountain where some intrepid mountain guides had buuilt structures for climbers to stay as they climbed upward. At kilometer 86, we stopped to let off passengers who were going to do the 4 day trek on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. We watched them don their gear, cross the narrow suspension bridge across the Rio Urubamba and start the hike upward. Better them than I. 

Check out this website http://www.naturavive.com/index.php/en/ on the dwellings on this cliff side.

At Aguas Calientes we were met by a man holding a sign reading, "Ester and Richard, Mosoq Inti". That was us and he led us through the tourist market across Punta President to Mosoq Inti Hostel where we will stay the next two nights. Outside our window we may look down at new construction. The other window opens to a cinder block wall. But it is clean and we hope the showers will be hot.

Rich and I walked up one of main streets in town as far as the hot springs entrance. Many of the restaurants were empty and people were enticing you to come in and sit down. We found one place that was serving Mexican food and had folks sitting at several tables. Our lunch of chicken enchilladas was not bad, not the same as you would find at some Mexican restaurants in the US but okay.

Afterwards we looked for the French bakery. After a few mis directions we found it and now have 2 pain Au chocolate for our breakfast and a sandwich on baguette for tomorrow.

Cheers.

Cusco, Peru, 10/14-15

13 31.512 S, 71 58.640 W

We flew out of Guayaquil early in the morning for Lima on Monday, Oct. 14. The flight was over the ocean and very smooth. As we descended into Lima we could see all sorts of fishing boats at anchor. The airport is reasonably sized. We were able to buy a Peru cup at Starbucks before our connecting flight to Cusco. We noticed the difference of 11,200 ft as we deplaned. Our hostel, Tayta Wasi is nice and clean but chilly as there is no heating, which is typical, but our showers are hot and the bed has two heavy wool blankets and a quilt. It is like lying under the lead cover they put on when you are getting x-rays at the dentist, but once you warm up it is quite toasty.

Tuesday afternoon we booked a tour of sites around Cusco. The first stop was La Catedral, a hugh cathedral built over the Inca Palace of Viracocha, to impress the conquered Incas with how mighty and powerful the Spanish were. Some of the not so suitable jabs at the Incas are present in some of the art work. A large painting depicting the Last Supper by a Quechua artist shows Jesus and the apostles dining on cuy or guinea pig. Everyone has light skin except Judas. This was required by the bishop who commissioned the Qhechua artist. Another painting of St. Thomas shows him trampling Incas with his horse. The many of the altars are covered in 18 karat gold leaf or silver.

Our next stop was Qorikancha, an Inca site near the cathedral that the Spanish built the Convent of Santo Domingo Del Cusco on top of. The original Inca site was in a square with chambers dedicated to the moon, the stars, the rainbow, etc and housed the mummies of the sacred persons of indigenous peoples they had conquered to show how powerful the Inca were. Only the two opposite sides of the original Inca structure exist and the convent cloisters used the other two sides as foundations and building materials.

After a bus ride up we were at Saqsayhuaman, often pronounced "Sexy Woman". This megalithe site in the shape of a puma, was built of large rocks, some weighing as much as 120 tons that were quarried from a site 5 kilometers away. Two rows of these rocks, fitting together so exact that you can not get a credit card in between, were originally about 7 meters high and formed a lightening bolt about 100 yards long. Rich and I slowly climbed to the top of the site with a beautiful view of Cusco. Saqsayhuaman was also the site of the famous battle between the Inca and the Spanish, where the Spanish victory marked the end of the Inca empire.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Who let the dogs out?


Early on Friday morning we heard a loud bang. What was that? The dogs of the neighborhood wanted to know too and started barking and barking, a virtual canine cacophony. Next we heard water running. This could not be good. A grinding sound of a seldom used valve ending the sound of rushing water. Until now we had wonderful hot showers every morning but now there was only a small drip. I quickly put on my contacts before there was no water at all. As we went down to breakfast we passed an inside rain shower. The pressure valve for the hot water tank had failed and the contents of the tank was dripping down the wall. Luckily the kitchen was on a separate water system so breakfast was uninterrupted. This Friday was also a holiday and in the afternoon the soccer team of Ecuador would be playing Uruguay for a slot at the World Cup in Brazil 2014. The restaurant was expecting a crowd in the afternoon. The team of the hostel rallied and the hot water tank was fixed by the afternoon. Team Ecuador also rallied and won over Uruguay, much to the delight of everyone in Cuenca.

Our teacher, Jeaneth, of Si Centro

At the flower market, long stem roses are $0.25

Friday was also our last day of Spanish classes at Si Centro. We enjoyed our classes with Jeaneth. In the afternoon, Carolina escorted us to museums, ruins, flower and artisan markets as well as trying to teach us a bit of salsa (the dance, not the dip for tortilla chips). The first few days were on regular verbs and vocabulary, then throw in some irregular verbs, infinitives, adjectives and stir vigorously. Rich and I learned a basic framework. Now we have to practice our skills.

Sunday, October 6, 2013

Ingapirca

Our next stop was the ruin site of Ingapirca at 10,350 ft. Originally this was a sacred site of the Canari, where they would make observations for their lunar calendar. They build elliptical shaped structures for housing and circular ones for storing food stuffs. There is a plaza or meeting area for their equivalent of a sun dial. Beneath is a burial pit where 11 bodies were found in fetal positions with jewelry and precious personal items as the Canari believed in reincarnation so that this wealth and possesions would be needed in the next life. You may easily identify the walls build by the Canari as they were piled stones with mud in between. The Inca took over this site and made it into a military outpost with barracks but also a palace for one of the chiefs with accommodations for shamans and virgins as well as a Temple of the Sun. The construction of the Incas is distinct in that each stone fits perfectly with no need for mortar or mud to fill in the gaps as there are no gaps. You could not put a credit card in between two stones they fit together so tightly. The site include the Inca road, a paved path built by the Incas from Columbia through Ecuador, Peru, Chile and Argentina. The Inca road from Cuenca to Cuzco is 2000 kilometers with tambo or rest stations every 28 kilometers. Runners or messengers would travel for several tambo before handing the message over to the next runner who would travel the next several tambo, so on and so forth until the message reached its destination.

Exploring ancient cultures

On Friday after our Spanish class and a bit of lunch we walked to the Museo de Las Culturas Aborigenes. It a small place with over 5000 artifacts from the pre-Hispanic Ecuadorian cultures to the Incas, covering about 15,000 years. We saw ancient litho phones or stone chimes, used to announce one's presence at a home or hacienda. These stones could be hit with another stone, brushed with your fingers or knocked against each other to make a sound that was similar to a bell. Other items included carved stone and pottery, such a a set of stone penises, clay images of  love making and breast feeding women. One small statue was of Siamese twins in native garb joined on their sides. The feline god was very powerful for many of these indigenous peoples, which makes sense as it is the most dangerous animal in the area and worth some respect. The Canari were very skilled at working with llama wool to make clothing, pottery, agriculture and accumulation of gold and making jewelry. Unfortunately this made them a target by the Inca who conquered the Canari and took over their major sites.

On Saturday we joined a tour to Ingapirca, the major Incan site in Ecuador. Wilson, a native of Cuenca, was our tour guide, Fausto was our driver. We were joined by a young man, Andre from Switzerland, Stephanie from southern Germany and Rick and Pat a retired couple from Canada. We left Cuenca around 8:45 and headed to north to see Santuario Virgen del Rocio or the Church of the Misty Virgin Mary. This church is partially carved into a cliff face at an elevation of 9200 ft above sea level. It is not for someone afraid of heights and we took climbing up the stairs to the sanctuary and the overlook above slowly. 




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Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Hats, hats and more hats

Tuesday, Rich and I walked across town towards the bus terminal and then across the street to the factory of Hermano Ortega and Hijos, a maker of fine 'Sombreros de Paja Toquilla'. These hats are also known as Panama Hats, even though they originated and are made mainly in Cuenca, Ecuador. Hijos is Spanish for children and now the two daughters and one son of Hermano Ortega are running the company.

The factory has a small exhibit describing how the hats are made. There is a plant that is grown in the area not too far from where Windarra is moored, that is used for weaving the hats. It is harvested, soaked in water then dried and split. The majority of weavers are women who start learning how to weave at the age of 8 years. The weaving is done either at night or in the early hours of the morning when it is cool and their hands are no sweaty. To weave Thr basic hat takes anywhere from four days to four months. The tighter and higher quality weaving takes longer. If you hold up a high quality hat up to the light, you would not see any light come through the weave.

The woven hat is sent to the factory. First it is sorted by quality and color. Hats are then washed and may be bleached or dyed, then dried. This process make take as few as two days or as much as two weeks depending on the weather. Once the hat is dried, it is steam pressed into shape and size. Each hat is pressed three times. Bands and decorations such as flowers are added.

Hats from Homero Ortega are sold all over the world. They are sold mostly in Europe, especially in Italy. Other places include South Africa, Australia, Peru, and Asia.

Take a look at the more classic style hats that we bought.