We got up at 5:30 am this morning, put the dingy on the davits, brought in the shore lines, lifted the anchor and left the harbor at 7:15 am. By 8:00 am we were seeing winds gusting to 35 knots so we turned around and anchored. let down the dingy and reconnected our shores lines here at Caleta Brecknock. It was not the right day to head out for a 60 mile passage.
Later in the morning a Dutch boat, SV Anna Caroline, arrived from a nearby anchorage and we helped them moor next to us. They told us that we had made the right decision to stay here. They came over this afternoon and we had a great time talking with them and sharing information.
We will check the gribs but we suspect we might be here a bit.
Go Seahawks!
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Saturday, January 31, 2015
Friday, January 30, 2015
Another day, more water
We are still here at Caleta Brecknock. The two French boats left early this morning. As there was little or no wind, we went over to the waterfall, which was gushing as it was raining hard, and filled our water tanks. It took several trips back and forth with the dingy and two buckets but we got it done. Now we are back at our original anchor spot with four shore lines and a cockpit full of wet foulies. The sun was out for a while this afternoon but I don't think it was enough to dry anything.
We think we might have a window tomorrow to head west. We will check the gribs of course.
We hope to be somewhere on Sunday that we will be able to get email and find out the score of the Super Bowl.
Go Seahawks!
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We think we might have a window tomorrow to head west. We will check the gribs of course.
We hope to be somewhere on Sunday that we will be able to get email and find out the score of the Super Bowl.
Go Seahawks!
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Thursday, January 29, 2015
A scramble to the lake
54 32.687 S, 071 54.637 W, Caleta Brecknock
We are still here waiting for a weather window.
Yesterday, Rich replaced the injector for the heater and now it is back to firing every time instead of a random start. All good.
Today I made some cupcakes for treats and brekkie, we will eat some and freeze some. Two French boats have joined us in the anchorage. They are coming from Puerto Williams and headed north. The winds have been gusting to 30 knots from the northeast. We helped them secure their lines and we are tied to each other as well.
This afternoon Rich and I paddled the dingy over to the shore behind us and scrambled up the creek bed to one of the lakes above the anchorage and the source of the waterfall we used to get water from two days ago. You can tell it is windy here as in some areas there are no trees at all sometimes only small shrubs clinging tightly to the ground. The rocks are rounded and smooth. We estimated the lake at a quarter mile long and not sure how deep as we could not see the bottom but a few yards from shore. It was nice to stretch our legs and take some photos of the rock formations and of the boats in the anchorage.
We will check the gribs but suspect we might be here at least another day.
Cheers
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We are still here waiting for a weather window.
Yesterday, Rich replaced the injector for the heater and now it is back to firing every time instead of a random start. All good.
Today I made some cupcakes for treats and brekkie, we will eat some and freeze some. Two French boats have joined us in the anchorage. They are coming from Puerto Williams and headed north. The winds have been gusting to 30 knots from the northeast. We helped them secure their lines and we are tied to each other as well.
This afternoon Rich and I paddled the dingy over to the shore behind us and scrambled up the creek bed to one of the lakes above the anchorage and the source of the waterfall we used to get water from two days ago. You can tell it is windy here as in some areas there are no trees at all sometimes only small shrubs clinging tightly to the ground. The rocks are rounded and smooth. We estimated the lake at a quarter mile long and not sure how deep as we could not see the bottom but a few yards from shore. It was nice to stretch our legs and take some photos of the rock formations and of the boats in the anchorage.
We will check the gribs but suspect we might be here at least another day.
Cheers
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Tuesday, January 27, 2015
Caleta Brecknock
54 32.687 S, 071 54.637 W, Caleta Brecknock
This morning we were up early and on our way by 7:30 am. For most of the trip around the west end of Tierro del Fuego, we had 1-2 meter swells, long period with some wind waves in Canal Cockburn until we turned the corner into Canal Ocasion. There the seas flatten and the winds went from 10-15 knots to 5-10 knots. We had a bit of a push most of the way.
When we entered Canal Ocasion we saw SV Rana coming towards us. This is a french boat, Rana is Spanish for frog, that our friends on Frannie B met a few days ago. We exchanged some pleasantries on the VHF before we went our separate ways.
Caleta Brecknock is at the end of Seno Brecknock. I suspect that Brecknock is German for broken rock since the whole area is mostly rock with some vegetation scattered here and there. We found a waterfall so we tied up and added some fresh water to our tanks. Afterwards we anchored in a small indentation using some of the lines that fishermen have left which is very convenient for us. Now we are anchored with 4 lines ashore and very secure.
I think we might be here a bit.
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This morning we were up early and on our way by 7:30 am. For most of the trip around the west end of Tierro del Fuego, we had 1-2 meter swells, long period with some wind waves in Canal Cockburn until we turned the corner into Canal Ocasion. There the seas flatten and the winds went from 10-15 knots to 5-10 knots. We had a bit of a push most of the way.
When we entered Canal Ocasion we saw SV Rana coming towards us. This is a french boat, Rana is Spanish for frog, that our friends on Frannie B met a few days ago. We exchanged some pleasantries on the VHF before we went our separate ways.
Caleta Brecknock is at the end of Seno Brecknock. I suspect that Brecknock is German for broken rock since the whole area is mostly rock with some vegetation scattered here and there. We found a waterfall so we tied up and added some fresh water to our tanks. Afterwards we anchored in a small indentation using some of the lines that fishermen have left which is very convenient for us. Now we are anchored with 4 lines ashore and very secure.
I think we might be here a bit.
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Monday, January 26, 2015
Caleta Cluedo
54 16.046 S, 071 46.569 W, Caleta Cluedo
We left Caleta Hidden at 3:30 pm so we could catch the top of the flood at Paso Ryan. Our start was not as fast as we would have liked because we had to go against the wind, 25-30 knots with short sloppy seas, 2-3 meters at 3 seconds for a few miles before turning south into Canal Pedro. Once we turned into the canal, the winds died and the seas became flat and we had the flood pushing us along. We made it to the pass on time which meant we had 5 meters below us and a 5 knot push. Not too bad.
We are now anchored at Caleta Cluedo and a small fishing boat is now anchored here as well. The plan is to get up early in the morning and get around Canal Cockburn and into Canal Occasion.
Cheers.
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We left Caleta Hidden at 3:30 pm so we could catch the top of the flood at Paso Ryan. Our start was not as fast as we would have liked because we had to go against the wind, 25-30 knots with short sloppy seas, 2-3 meters at 3 seconds for a few miles before turning south into Canal Pedro. Once we turned into the canal, the winds died and the seas became flat and we had the flood pushing us along. We made it to the pass on time which meant we had 5 meters below us and a 5 knot push. Not too bad.
We are now anchored at Caleta Cluedo and a small fishing boat is now anchored here as well. The plan is to get up early in the morning and get around Canal Cockburn and into Canal Occasion.
Cheers.
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Sunday, January 25, 2015
Caleta Hidden
53 57.065 S, 071 36.105 W, Caleta Hidden
This morning we were anchor up and out by 8:00 am. As we passed Bahia Ballena, Rich saw a fluke of a whale plus we saw blow, in fact we heard it, it was so close. Lots of seals jumping in the water too. The winds died as the day progressed and the seas became flat calm. Not what you would expect, but we didn't mind it.
Now we are tucked in at Caleta Hidden with two shore lines. The anchorage is about 2 miles up a fjord, very calm and peaceful. We saw what looked like a beaver swimming in the water as we went by.
According to the book, "1421: The Year China Discovered America" by Gavin Menzies, the Chinese sailed through the straits in 1421, led by an admiral by the name of Hong Bao. Magellan came through in 1520, with charts that showed the straits that he 'discovered'. If China had not subsequently destroyed their records of the discoveries, we would now be passing through the "Straits of Hong Bao", not the Straits of Magellan or Estrecho de Magallanes.
Just sayin'
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This morning we were anchor up and out by 8:00 am. As we passed Bahia Ballena, Rich saw a fluke of a whale plus we saw blow, in fact we heard it, it was so close. Lots of seals jumping in the water too. The winds died as the day progressed and the seas became flat calm. Not what you would expect, but we didn't mind it.
Now we are tucked in at Caleta Hidden with two shore lines. The anchorage is about 2 miles up a fjord, very calm and peaceful. We saw what looked like a beaver swimming in the water as we went by.
According to the book, "1421: The Year China Discovered America" by Gavin Menzies, the Chinese sailed through the straits in 1421, led by an admiral by the name of Hong Bao. Magellan came through in 1520, with charts that showed the straits that he 'discovered'. If China had not subsequently destroyed their records of the discoveries, we would now be passing through the "Straits of Hong Bao", not the Straits of Magellan or Estrecho de Magallanes.
Just sayin'
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Saturday, January 24, 2015
Bahia Mussel
53 37.460 S, 072 19.096 W, Bahia Mussel
Yesterday we stayed at Caleta Playa Parda Chica. It was nice and sunny so I did a little laundry which dried nicely in the sun. Rich and I read and relaxed most of the day.
This morning we had intended to get up at 6:30 am but as it was raining and windy early in the morning we slept in and waited until after the net to get the shore lines and the anchor. Rich went in the dingy and untied the shore lines, while I coiled them into the baskets. By 10 am we were anchor up and heading out.
The clouds lifted during the day and we had sunshine and blue patches. In the distance we could see snow covered mountains and glaciers.
We had current and wind in our favor for most of the trip until we got to the intersection with Paso Jeronimo then we had 3 knots against us for a while until we went into the anchorage. At the intersection there is an armada station, way out in the middle of nowhere in the straits. They called and asked for our information such as call sign, number of persons on board, next port, next anchorage, current position. Fairly easy even with our Spanish.
We are anchored at the head of the bay with no lines tonight (yippee!). There is a wind off the land but we seem to be holding well. We saw whale blow as we entered. The island, Isla Carlos III, is a sea park to protect the humpback whales in the area.
Tomorrow we hope to continue on.
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Yesterday we stayed at Caleta Playa Parda Chica. It was nice and sunny so I did a little laundry which dried nicely in the sun. Rich and I read and relaxed most of the day.
This morning we had intended to get up at 6:30 am but as it was raining and windy early in the morning we slept in and waited until after the net to get the shore lines and the anchor. Rich went in the dingy and untied the shore lines, while I coiled them into the baskets. By 10 am we were anchor up and heading out.
The clouds lifted during the day and we had sunshine and blue patches. In the distance we could see snow covered mountains and glaciers.
We had current and wind in our favor for most of the trip until we got to the intersection with Paso Jeronimo then we had 3 knots against us for a while until we went into the anchorage. At the intersection there is an armada station, way out in the middle of nowhere in the straits. They called and asked for our information such as call sign, number of persons on board, next port, next anchorage, current position. Fairly easy even with our Spanish.
We are anchored at the head of the bay with no lines tonight (yippee!). There is a wind off the land but we seem to be holding well. We saw whale blow as we entered. The island, Isla Carlos III, is a sea park to protect the humpback whales in the area.
Tomorrow we hope to continue on.
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Thursday, January 22, 2015
Another day at Caleta Playa Parda Chica
After looking at the gribs we decided to stay another day and we are glad we did. In the afternoon, the rain started and the winds came up with gusts to 40 knots. It was a good time to stay here, secured with shore lines and a good book or two or three.
I am reading an autobiography of Charles Darwin and Rich is reading about Catherine the Great, so we are both exercising our minds a little.
Hopefully tomorrow we will be able to press on.
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I am reading an autobiography of Charles Darwin and Rich is reading about Catherine the Great, so we are both exercising our minds a little.
Hopefully tomorrow we will be able to press on.
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Wednesday, January 21, 2015
Shore lines
Today we stayed at Caleta Playa Parda Chica, to recup and wait for a weather window. The weather cleared and it was a nice spring day with sunshine and blue sky. Not what we expected from the gribs but it was a good rest day for us and last night we slept much better than Caleta Uriarte. We were also visited by a curious kingfisher who posed on the lifelines.
One facet of cruising in Chile is shore lines. Cruising in the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia you don't need to do this very often.
We are getting the hang of setting them and there are lots of tricks to learn. The tough part is a) finding suitable trees/rocks/shrubs to tie to, b) paddling the dingy to a when a stiff wind is blowing you away from shore and the boat. We use a kayak paddle with the dingy which is easier to handle than two oars. In the dingy is an anchor which we can lob onto the shore to secure the dingy so it does not go on walkabout. The floating shore line is in a tall laundry basket coiled inside and that is put in the dingy. I take the free end of the line, tie it to my pfd so my hands are free to scramble onto the shore. If the boat is close enough, or less than half the length of the shore line, I can just bring the line around the tree or shrub and bring both ends back to the boat. In this arrangement, when we leave, I don't have to go back on shore with the dingy, we can just let lose the line on one end and pull the line back to the boat as there is no knot to hang it on on shore. If the line is not long enough, I tie a know that is far enough from the shore so if the tide changes, I can still get to it from the dingy, untie it and we bring it back on the boat. I always carry a sailor's knife with me so I can cut the line if necessary, as I did at Caleta Uriarte where the rock refused to give up the line.
This all works well with no wind or rain, otherwise it can be problematic. Paddling against a stiff wind is tiring and frustrating. It is also scary if you think you will be blown away from the shore and the boat.
Rich and I are working on our techniques and we are by no means experts, just getting lots of practice. Rich has the hard part, controlling the boat, keeping it off the rocks, setting/resetting the anchor and helping pull the shore line in. He has also taken turns in the dingy so he can appreciate that job too.
Doing this job with a large boat and just two people can be difficult.
Time to send this off so we can get the gribs and determine a plan for tomorrow.
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One facet of cruising in Chile is shore lines. Cruising in the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia you don't need to do this very often.
We are getting the hang of setting them and there are lots of tricks to learn. The tough part is a) finding suitable trees/rocks/shrubs to tie to, b) paddling the dingy to a when a stiff wind is blowing you away from shore and the boat. We use a kayak paddle with the dingy which is easier to handle than two oars. In the dingy is an anchor which we can lob onto the shore to secure the dingy so it does not go on walkabout. The floating shore line is in a tall laundry basket coiled inside and that is put in the dingy. I take the free end of the line, tie it to my pfd so my hands are free to scramble onto the shore. If the boat is close enough, or less than half the length of the shore line, I can just bring the line around the tree or shrub and bring both ends back to the boat. In this arrangement, when we leave, I don't have to go back on shore with the dingy, we can just let lose the line on one end and pull the line back to the boat as there is no knot to hang it on on shore. If the line is not long enough, I tie a know that is far enough from the shore so if the tide changes, I can still get to it from the dingy, untie it and we bring it back on the boat. I always carry a sailor's knife with me so I can cut the line if necessary, as I did at Caleta Uriarte where the rock refused to give up the line.
This all works well with no wind or rain, otherwise it can be problematic. Paddling against a stiff wind is tiring and frustrating. It is also scary if you think you will be blown away from the shore and the boat.
Rich and I are working on our techniques and we are by no means experts, just getting lots of practice. Rich has the hard part, controlling the boat, keeping it off the rocks, setting/resetting the anchor and helping pull the shore line in. He has also taken turns in the dingy so he can appreciate that job too.
Doing this job with a large boat and just two people can be difficult.
Time to send this off so we can get the gribs and determine a plan for tomorrow.
----------
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Tuesday, January 20, 2015
Caleta Playa Parda Chica
53 18.706 S, 073 00.000 W, Caleta Playa Parda Chica
Last night at Caleta Uriarte was not a restful one. After having anchored 3 times we were still unsure of our shore lines and the rachas or williwaws continued all night. We decided to leave and head to a better anchorage.
In the morning we were up early to find that one of the shore lines had broken off the tree/limb it was tied to. One that was tied to a rock was so secure we had to cut the line as the rock would not give it up.
We pulled out of the anchorage and had to bash into the 20+ knot wind and seas to get out and far enough out so we could turn east. Once we turned we had following seas, albeit, 2-3 meter swells, 5-6 seconds apart and wind on the aft quarter 25-35 knots, yeehaw! With a staysail we were moving! We saw a tanker, 900+ feet long headed westbound. Stay out of his way!
Now we are anchored in a small inlet in the cove, with 4 shore lines. Two of the lines are to lines the fishermen use, the other two to trees or shrubs. One of the trees was not strong enough so we just replaced it with another more sturdy tree. As it is low tide we are in 2.5 meters of water. A little hairy.
The anchor alarm is set. We are still experiencing rachas but we are not moving very much so hopefully, all will be well tonight. It appears that the winds will be picking up so we plan to stay at least another night, maybe more.
The boats we have been traveling with are spread out. SV Storm Bay is at Caleta Moonlight Shadow, where we were on Jan. 13. SV Joyant will be going into Puerto Natalas tomorrow. SV Limbo was at Caleta Brecknock yesterday with SV Frannie B. We try to talk to each other on the SSB once or twice a day.
It is almost dinner time so I will close.
Cheers.
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Last night at Caleta Uriarte was not a restful one. After having anchored 3 times we were still unsure of our shore lines and the rachas or williwaws continued all night. We decided to leave and head to a better anchorage.
In the morning we were up early to find that one of the shore lines had broken off the tree/limb it was tied to. One that was tied to a rock was so secure we had to cut the line as the rock would not give it up.
We pulled out of the anchorage and had to bash into the 20+ knot wind and seas to get out and far enough out so we could turn east. Once we turned we had following seas, albeit, 2-3 meter swells, 5-6 seconds apart and wind on the aft quarter 25-35 knots, yeehaw! With a staysail we were moving! We saw a tanker, 900+ feet long headed westbound. Stay out of his way!
Now we are anchored in a small inlet in the cove, with 4 shore lines. Two of the lines are to lines the fishermen use, the other two to trees or shrubs. One of the trees was not strong enough so we just replaced it with another more sturdy tree. As it is low tide we are in 2.5 meters of water. A little hairy.
The anchor alarm is set. We are still experiencing rachas but we are not moving very much so hopefully, all will be well tonight. It appears that the winds will be picking up so we plan to stay at least another night, maybe more.
The boats we have been traveling with are spread out. SV Storm Bay is at Caleta Moonlight Shadow, where we were on Jan. 13. SV Joyant will be going into Puerto Natalas tomorrow. SV Limbo was at Caleta Brecknock yesterday with SV Frannie B. We try to talk to each other on the SSB once or twice a day.
It is almost dinner time so I will close.
Cheers.
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Monday, January 19, 2015
Re: Across the Straits of Magellan
Congratulations world adventurers. We salute you with a glass of Pinot Gris sitting in a hot tub at the Marlborough Vinters Hotel in Bleinham, NZ.
D&N
Sent from my iPad
Doug Hansmann
Cell: 206-915-1511
D&N
Sent from my iPad
Doug Hansmann
Cell: 206-915-1511
Across the Straits of Magellan
53 03.871 S, 073 48.026 W, Caleta Uriarte
As a sailor, there are certain milestones that mark your sailing career; crossing the straits of Juan de Fuca, cruising Desolation Sound, rounding Point Conception, California, cruising in Mexico, leaving Mexico, crossing the South Pacific, crossing the Tasman Sea and many others. Today we added another milestone, crossing the Straits of Magellan. One hears many stories of great weather and terrible weather, good passages and hold on tight and hope you make it. We were fortunate that ours was more the former than the latter.
We had winds 15-25 knots SW - W - WNW, seas 1-2 meters, wind waves 2-3 feet, short and sloppy. The first 14 miles the winds and seas were forward or on the beam (wet and rolly), the rest of the way on the starboard aft quarter (more comfortable).
Unfortunately the worse part was the anchorage with rachas or williwaws pushing the boat every which way. We anchored 3 times, twice with lines (2 and now 3), once with no lines. Not enough suitable trees or rocks in the right places. Now we are settled and looking forward to salmon for dinner, fresh made brownies for dessert and champagne to celebrate.
Yeah!
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As a sailor, there are certain milestones that mark your sailing career; crossing the straits of Juan de Fuca, cruising Desolation Sound, rounding Point Conception, California, cruising in Mexico, leaving Mexico, crossing the South Pacific, crossing the Tasman Sea and many others. Today we added another milestone, crossing the Straits of Magellan. One hears many stories of great weather and terrible weather, good passages and hold on tight and hope you make it. We were fortunate that ours was more the former than the latter.
We had winds 15-25 knots SW - W - WNW, seas 1-2 meters, wind waves 2-3 feet, short and sloppy. The first 14 miles the winds and seas were forward or on the beam (wet and rolly), the rest of the way on the starboard aft quarter (more comfortable).
Unfortunately the worse part was the anchorage with rachas or williwaws pushing the boat every which way. We anchored 3 times, twice with lines (2 and now 3), once with no lines. Not enough suitable trees or rocks in the right places. Now we are settled and looking forward to salmon for dinner, fresh made brownies for dessert and champagne to celebrate.
Yeah!
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Sunday, January 18, 2015
Puerto Profundo
52 40.922 S, 073 46.211 W, Puerto Profundo
We are now anchored at Puerto Profundo. Profundo means deep or profound in Spanish. Not sure why this is the name of the anchorage but it will be our last stop before crossing the Straits of Magellan, which I suppose is a bit deep or profound. It will certainly be a milestone. We have traveled a little over 1000 miles since leaving Puerto Montt on Dec. 3.
In some of the anchorages we have seen some gray colored ducks with bright orange bills and yellow feet. They are called Steamer ducks. They are flightless and move their wings like paddles slapping the water to move away. We first thought they were lazy and did not want to fly but now we know that they don't fly at all. Something new.
As always we will check the gribs. There is a manned lighthouse nearby and we may call them on the VHF and ask for a weather report as well, and conditions in the strait.
Cheers, the adventure continues....
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We are now anchored at Puerto Profundo. Profundo means deep or profound in Spanish. Not sure why this is the name of the anchorage but it will be our last stop before crossing the Straits of Magellan, which I suppose is a bit deep or profound. It will certainly be a milestone. We have traveled a little over 1000 miles since leaving Puerto Montt on Dec. 3.
In some of the anchorages we have seen some gray colored ducks with bright orange bills and yellow feet. They are called Steamer ducks. They are flightless and move their wings like paddles slapping the water to move away. We first thought they were lazy and did not want to fly but now we know that they don't fly at all. Something new.
As always we will check the gribs. There is a manned lighthouse nearby and we may call them on the VHF and ask for a weather report as well, and conditions in the strait.
Cheers, the adventure continues....
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Saturday, January 17, 2015
Puerto Mardon
52 09.402 S, 073 42.077 W, Puerto Mardon
This morning we were up early and by 7:45 am we were headed south. We had hope to catch a 'flood pushing us' but instead the flood pushed north so we were going against it for part of the time and against the wind as well but only 6-9 knots of wind so not bad.
The sun peaked through the high clouds and we had views of the snow covered Andes and the Torres del Paine. As we came around about to enter Canal Smyth, we got a call on the VHF from a 400+ foot tanker northbound, asking about passing port to port. No problem captain, we will adjust our course and pass you port to port. It is nice having AIS.
We anchored at Puerto Mardon at 1:30 pm. According to our CMap chart on the charter/plotter we were going overland. The Navionics chart on the Ipad was spot on. The anchorage also serves as a fishing camp as there is a structure on shore with some tarps and some fishing equipment.
From our anchorage we can see Volcan Burney, an inactive volcano, its last known eruption was in 1910, which is just fine with us.
Cheers
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This morning we were up early and by 7:45 am we were headed south. We had hope to catch a 'flood pushing us' but instead the flood pushed north so we were going against it for part of the time and against the wind as well but only 6-9 knots of wind so not bad.
The sun peaked through the high clouds and we had views of the snow covered Andes and the Torres del Paine. As we came around about to enter Canal Smyth, we got a call on the VHF from a 400+ foot tanker northbound, asking about passing port to port. No problem captain, we will adjust our course and pass you port to port. It is nice having AIS.
We anchored at Puerto Mardon at 1:30 pm. According to our CMap chart on the charter/plotter we were going overland. The Navionics chart on the Ipad was spot on. The anchorage also serves as a fishing camp as there is a structure on shore with some tarps and some fishing equipment.
From our anchorage we can see Volcan Burney, an inactive volcano, its last known eruption was in 1910, which is just fine with us.
Cheers
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Friday, January 16, 2015
Caleta Bernard
51 45.082 S, 073 51.932 W, Caleta Bernard
The sun came out! It was a beautiful morning in the anchorage. A slight chill in the air but clear, blue skies and sunshine, yippee!
We bailed the dingy and put what we could into one of our water tanks. After untying and bringing in our shore lines, we putt-putted our way to the small waterfall. Rich anchored and we secured two shore lines, straddling the waterfall. We tried using our hose and a funnel, hoping for some hydrostatic pressure to move the water through the hose leading back to the boat but no joy. So we shuttled two buckets back and forth and Rich poured them into the water tanks. By the umpteenth time, I had figured out which branch to grab to put the end of the dingy close enough to the waterfall so I could fill the buckets. It took about two and a half hours to fill both tanks to full so now we have 150 gallons which should last a bit, until the next rain storm or waterfall which ever comes first (my bet is on the rain).
We only went 15 nautical miles today to Caleta Bernard. On the way, since we had clear skies, we saw the snow covered Andes and I think part of Torres de Paines. Gorgeous views.
Our anchorage is not very big and we are floating in calm water. With the sunshine we are able to dry our foulies so they do not smell foul and are no longer soaking wet as mine were from the waterfall.
Pasta is back on the menu.
Cheers,
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The sun came out! It was a beautiful morning in the anchorage. A slight chill in the air but clear, blue skies and sunshine, yippee!
We bailed the dingy and put what we could into one of our water tanks. After untying and bringing in our shore lines, we putt-putted our way to the small waterfall. Rich anchored and we secured two shore lines, straddling the waterfall. We tried using our hose and a funnel, hoping for some hydrostatic pressure to move the water through the hose leading back to the boat but no joy. So we shuttled two buckets back and forth and Rich poured them into the water tanks. By the umpteenth time, I had figured out which branch to grab to put the end of the dingy close enough to the waterfall so I could fill the buckets. It took about two and a half hours to fill both tanks to full so now we have 150 gallons which should last a bit, until the next rain storm or waterfall which ever comes first (my bet is on the rain).
We only went 15 nautical miles today to Caleta Bernard. On the way, since we had clear skies, we saw the snow covered Andes and I think part of Torres de Paines. Gorgeous views.
Our anchorage is not very big and we are floating in calm water. With the sunshine we are able to dry our foulies so they do not smell foul and are no longer soaking wet as mine were from the waterfall.
Pasta is back on the menu.
Cheers,
----------
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Thursday, January 15, 2015
Another wet day
We are still here at Caleta Moonlight Shadow and it has been raining the whole time. We now have 3 rain catchers going. One each by the port and starboard solar panels and another on starboard catching rain coming off the bimini, which seems to be producing the best.
I made some chocolate chip cookies for our dessert tonight and Rich made cornbread to go with dinner.
No much else to report. We will look at the gribs tonight to see what we do tomorrow.
Cheers.
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I made some chocolate chip cookies for our dessert tonight and Rich made cornbread to go with dinner.
No much else to report. We will look at the gribs tonight to see what we do tomorrow.
Cheers.
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Wednesday, January 14, 2015
No moon at Caleta Moonlight Shadow
We decided to stay put today. It was sunny for part of the day and high overcast the rest. There was no moonlight shadow, or moon or moonlight last night though.
Rich pickled the watermaker and wrote out a list of parts we need. He also cleaned the engine intake strainer, checked and tighten hoses, etc. I made a new water catcher, or rather a new design to replace the temporary one on port. Of course, no rain today so I have not had a chance to see if it is an improvement or not.
This afternoon, another sailboat came in. The owner is Belgian, his girlfriend is French and the couple with them is Swiss. They are on their way to Punta Arenas and then on to Buenos Aires. We had a nice chat with them. It is nice to know we are not the only ones out here other than the folks we know.
We will check weather again tonight. There are rumors of a big southerly. If so, we will wait.
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Rich pickled the watermaker and wrote out a list of parts we need. He also cleaned the engine intake strainer, checked and tighten hoses, etc. I made a new water catcher, or rather a new design to replace the temporary one on port. Of course, no rain today so I have not had a chance to see if it is an improvement or not.
This afternoon, another sailboat came in. The owner is Belgian, his girlfriend is French and the couple with them is Swiss. They are on their way to Punta Arenas and then on to Buenos Aires. We had a nice chat with them. It is nice to know we are not the only ones out here other than the folks we know.
We will check weather again tonight. There are rumors of a big southerly. If so, we will wait.
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Tuesday, January 13, 2015
Caleta Moonlight Shadow and whales
51 33.611 S, 074 04.676 W, Caleta Moonlight Shadow
Tiare, the 55 foot catamaran left early this morning. We were not too far behind. With our staysail out we did 7.4 knots for most of the day. We saw several groups or pods of fin whales, as many at 6 in a group. We would watch for their blow and look for their small, shark like dorsal fin. All of them were north bound. Did we miss the memo?
Now we are anchored at Caleta Moonlight Shadow. I am not sure how this cove, which is 2 miles inside an island got the name. Perhaps we will see the moon tonight or maybe some stars. Today we had many sun breaks and patches of blue sky with periods of no rain. It definitely lifted our spirits. Not that we mind having rain to help fill our water tanks, but continually does get a little old, especially when the clouds are low and you can't see the view.
But today we were lucky. Whales and sunshine. Now we are tucked in with 3 lines to shore to hold us in place. We are thinking of hanging around tomorrow too.
Cheers
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Tiare, the 55 foot catamaran left early this morning. We were not too far behind. With our staysail out we did 7.4 knots for most of the day. We saw several groups or pods of fin whales, as many at 6 in a group. We would watch for their blow and look for their small, shark like dorsal fin. All of them were north bound. Did we miss the memo?
Now we are anchored at Caleta Moonlight Shadow. I am not sure how this cove, which is 2 miles inside an island got the name. Perhaps we will see the moon tonight or maybe some stars. Today we had many sun breaks and patches of blue sky with periods of no rain. It definitely lifted our spirits. Not that we mind having rain to help fill our water tanks, but continually does get a little old, especially when the clouds are low and you can't see the view.
But today we were lucky. Whales and sunshine. Now we are tucked in with 3 lines to shore to hold us in place. We are thinking of hanging around tomorrow too.
Cheers
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Monday, January 12, 2015
Puerto Bueno
50 59.281 S, 074 12.940 W, Puerto Bueno
We did not see any condors, it was too wet out. We made our way down and around the corner into Canal Sarmiento. Our anchorage tonight, may be named Bueno but is more so-so. Not a lot of protection from the wind and not very scenic.
It is getting colder so we are wearing more fleece. The water temperature has dropped to 8 degrees C.
It is a little lonely out here, no boats, no radio traffic, just us and yes, we had some dolphins for company for about an hour this morning.
Hoping to continue going south tomorrow if the gribs agree.
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We did not see any condors, it was too wet out. We made our way down and around the corner into Canal Sarmiento. Our anchorage tonight, may be named Bueno but is more so-so. Not a lot of protection from the wind and not very scenic.
It is getting colder so we are wearing more fleece. The water temperature has dropped to 8 degrees C.
It is a little lonely out here, no boats, no radio traffic, just us and yes, we had some dolphins for company for about an hour this morning.
Hoping to continue going south tomorrow if the gribs agree.
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Sunday, January 11, 2015
Poza de las Nutrias
50 37.987 S, 074 15.750 W Poza de las Nutrias
We were anchor up at 7:35 am and a group of dolphins ushered us out of the anchorage. We had plenty of wind from 3-23 knots but the current was in our favor and by noon we had anchored and tied 3 shorelines at Poza de las Nutrias.
Nutrias is not in the Spanish dictionary but in an English dictionary it refers to coypu. A coypu is defined as a South American rodent similar to a beaver. We have not seen one in the anchorage yet but one of the cruising guides says we should also be on the look out for otters and even condors which soar of the rock hillsides. So far no condor sightings but I did see a kingfisher swoop over the boat and land in a nearby tree and trill.
Rich made an apple pie for dessert so I will close now.
Cheers
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We were anchor up at 7:35 am and a group of dolphins ushered us out of the anchorage. We had plenty of wind from 3-23 knots but the current was in our favor and by noon we had anchored and tied 3 shorelines at Poza de las Nutrias.
Nutrias is not in the Spanish dictionary but in an English dictionary it refers to coypu. A coypu is defined as a South American rodent similar to a beaver. We have not seen one in the anchorage yet but one of the cruising guides says we should also be on the look out for otters and even condors which soar of the rock hillsides. So far no condor sightings but I did see a kingfisher swoop over the boat and land in a nearby tree and trill.
Rich made an apple pie for dessert so I will close now.
Cheers
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Saturday, January 10, 2015
Yet another day at Brumas Patagonia
Gribs still did not look favorable. This afternoon we had some wave action from the entrance which is 3 miles away which gave us some indication that there was some weather going on outside. We had some occasional gust and we moved around a bit.
It was a lazy day on board though. Rich and I read mostly. I changed the configuration of one of the rain catchers so hopefully it will be more productive and less affected by the winds.
Hopefully we will have a window to continue south tomorrow.
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It was a lazy day on board though. Rich and I read mostly. I changed the configuration of one of the rain catchers so hopefully it will be more productive and less affected by the winds.
Hopefully we will have a window to continue south tomorrow.
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Friday, January 9, 2015
A day at Brumas Patagonia
We are still here at Fondeadero Brumas Patagonia. We looked at the gribs last night and decided it was best to stay put.
Rich used the time to replace the prefilter and the engine fuel filter. These are not things you would want to deal with in rough seas. He also moved fuel from the jerry jugs to the aft tank.
I set up a little dam to direct water from the deck into the port water tank. Can't say that we have accumulated much water but better than none. I also experimented and made some cinnamon raisin bread. It will be great toasted with butter for breakfast. It was yummy right out of the oven as well.
We had a little bit of a fire drill this afternoon when anchor alarm went off indicating that the anchor drug and we were adrift. No harm done, we just had to lift the anchor, motor back and reset it. We seem to be secure now and of course the anchor alarm is set so hopefully we will not drift again.
Not sure what we will do tomorrow.
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Rich used the time to replace the prefilter and the engine fuel filter. These are not things you would want to deal with in rough seas. He also moved fuel from the jerry jugs to the aft tank.
I set up a little dam to direct water from the deck into the port water tank. Can't say that we have accumulated much water but better than none. I also experimented and made some cinnamon raisin bread. It will be great toasted with butter for breakfast. It was yummy right out of the oven as well.
We had a little bit of a fire drill this afternoon when anchor alarm went off indicating that the anchor drug and we were adrift. No harm done, we just had to lift the anchor, motor back and reset it. We seem to be secure now and of course the anchor alarm is set so hopefully we will not drift again.
Not sure what we will do tomorrow.
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Thursday, January 8, 2015
Fondeadero Brumas Patagonia
50 18.857 S, 074 25.466 W
You know it is going to be a good anchorage when you have a group of dolphins as a welcoming party. There were 5-6 individuals who would race along the boat, jumping, and flipping their tails as we made our way 3 miles up the fjord to the anchorage. We passed several waterfalls and from our anchor spot you see even more on the hillside. It is hard not to be ho-hum yet another waterfall.
Today we had lots of fog and used our radar. We heard a little chatter on the VHF in Spanish be we never saw another boat or an AIS target.
We continue to collect rain which it has been almost all of the time lately. I wish the clouds would lift at least sometime so we could take in the view.
Cheers
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You know it is going to be a good anchorage when you have a group of dolphins as a welcoming party. There were 5-6 individuals who would race along the boat, jumping, and flipping their tails as we made our way 3 miles up the fjord to the anchorage. We passed several waterfalls and from our anchor spot you see even more on the hillside. It is hard not to be ho-hum yet another waterfall.
Today we had lots of fog and used our radar. We heard a little chatter on the VHF in Spanish be we never saw another boat or an AIS target.
We continue to collect rain which it has been almost all of the time lately. I wish the clouds would lift at least sometime so we could take in the view.
Cheers
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Wednesday, January 7, 2015
A day at Estero Dock
As the watermaker is still not working right we decided to stay the day. Rich worked on it and took the motor apart and cleaned it. Much improvement but now he is concerned about the seals on the manifold which require a special tool to remove which we do not have and it is not part of the 'normal' maintenance kit. So we are limping along.
To supplement, I made another rain catcher for the port side and put up some canvas over the boom and bimini to increase the rain catching area. As it rained almost 100 percent today, it was well worth it.
During the brief sun breaks you could see more of the hills in the distant, the wet rock shining like silver. The cascades and waterfalls coursing through the trees or over bare rock worn down to smooth slides. No a soul around except for us and a few bird.
We have one negative - small, black flies. They coming and crawl around on the inside of the bimini. They are easy to get but annoying. Rich had the shop vacuum out to clean the motor and I used it to evacuate the black flies. I am definitely not a Buddhist.
Again, we will look at the gribs and see if we move south tomorrow.
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To supplement, I made another rain catcher for the port side and put up some canvas over the boom and bimini to increase the rain catching area. As it rained almost 100 percent today, it was well worth it.
During the brief sun breaks you could see more of the hills in the distant, the wet rock shining like silver. The cascades and waterfalls coursing through the trees or over bare rock worn down to smooth slides. No a soul around except for us and a few bird.
We have one negative - small, black flies. They coming and crawl around on the inside of the bimini. They are easy to get but annoying. Rich had the shop vacuum out to clean the motor and I used it to evacuate the black flies. I am definitely not a Buddhist.
Again, we will look at the gribs and see if we move south tomorrow.
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Tuesday, January 6, 2015
Estero Dock
49 56.727 S, 074 27.848 W, Estero Dock
This morning we bailed out the dingy, pulled in our shore lines and headed south. We had the current with us most of the way and the winds were light with occasional gusts up to the 20s which were short lived. The rain was cold and persistent most of the day. When the clouds lifted we could see the many waterfalls and cascades on the hillsides and snow on the crests.
Shortly before entering the anchorage the winds piped up but abated as we turned into the anchorage through a narrow passage about 15 meters wide. Two dolphins led the way which we thought was encouraging. We are anchored near one of two waterfalls and perhaps we will get some free water before we leave, especially as the watermaker has decided to quit again. No shore lines tonight so I didn't have to get wet. Good news!
We will look at the gribs tonight and decide the plan for tomorrow.
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This morning we bailed out the dingy, pulled in our shore lines and headed south. We had the current with us most of the way and the winds were light with occasional gusts up to the 20s which were short lived. The rain was cold and persistent most of the day. When the clouds lifted we could see the many waterfalls and cascades on the hillsides and snow on the crests.
Shortly before entering the anchorage the winds piped up but abated as we turned into the anchorage through a narrow passage about 15 meters wide. Two dolphins led the way which we thought was encouraging. We are anchored near one of two waterfalls and perhaps we will get some free water before we leave, especially as the watermaker has decided to quit again. No shore lines tonight so I didn't have to get wet. Good news!
We will look at the gribs tonight and decide the plan for tomorrow.
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Monday, January 5, 2015
Another day at Caleta Stella Maris
We sre still here based on what we see in the gribs. We will check tonight and see if we will be moving on or staying put another day.
Rich worked hard on the watermaker today. It is working again but not at full pressure so it is not 100% but at least it is making water. My rain catcher is still deployed but I have to say it is not catching a lot, probably enough to make tea but it also has not been raining much either.
Tonight for dessert we have carrot cake with cream cheese icing. Yum!
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Rich worked hard on the watermaker today. It is working again but not at full pressure so it is not 100% but at least it is making water. My rain catcher is still deployed but I have to say it is not catching a lot, probably enough to make tea but it also has not been raining much either.
Tonight for dessert we have carrot cake with cream cheese icing. Yum!
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Sunday, January 4, 2015
Water, water all around
We are still here at Caleta Maris Stella as the gribs are predicting uncomfortable weather south.
Rich spent most of the day working on the watermaker but unfortunately no joy. Seems like there is a problem with the motor. So tomorrow he will work some more on it. In the meantime, I have the rain catcher set up but not much rain. Go figure.
While Rich was working I baked some bread. It actually turned out pretty well if I do say so myself. Not sure what I will bake tomorrow.
In the meantime, we are here at a nice pleasant anchorage and secure with 2 shore lines. We can see the canal outside and it has been whitecaps most of the day. A seal came by to check us out, then took off.
Cheers
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Rich spent most of the day working on the watermaker but unfortunately no joy. Seems like there is a problem with the motor. So tomorrow he will work some more on it. In the meantime, I have the rain catcher set up but not much rain. Go figure.
While Rich was working I baked some bread. It actually turned out pretty well if I do say so myself. Not sure what I will bake tomorrow.
In the meantime, we are here at a nice pleasant anchorage and secure with 2 shore lines. We can see the canal outside and it has been whitecaps most of the day. A seal came by to check us out, then took off.
Cheers
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Saturday, January 3, 2015
Out of cell range
49 22.493 S, 074 25.035 W Caleta Maris Stella
We left Puerto Eden this morning without getting water as the tide was low and we did not want to attempt the dock/wharf. We are now 16 miles south at Caleta Maris Stella. It is a nice anchorage and we have 2 shore lines so we are secure and prepared if the weather gets stormy as it is predicted to do. During our passage we had winds from the N, NNW up to 27 knots and it started to rain just as we were entering the anchorage, of course. We were able to get shore lines and pull the boat around but it was a bit of a struggle as we were pulling against the wind. As soon at I put out the rain catcher, yes, you guesses it, the rains stopped. Maybe I will have to leave it out the rest of the trip...
While we were in Puerto Eden, we had cell coverage and internet. I managed to use up my 150 MB in 2 days instead of the 15 days, oops. We hope you enjoy the few pictures we posted. It is beautiful here, when it is not raining and the clouds lift, that is. Now we are back to just sailmail.
Cheers
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We left Puerto Eden this morning without getting water as the tide was low and we did not want to attempt the dock/wharf. We are now 16 miles south at Caleta Maris Stella. It is a nice anchorage and we have 2 shore lines so we are secure and prepared if the weather gets stormy as it is predicted to do. During our passage we had winds from the N, NNW up to 27 knots and it started to rain just as we were entering the anchorage, of course. We were able to get shore lines and pull the boat around but it was a bit of a struggle as we were pulling against the wind. As soon at I put out the rain catcher, yes, you guesses it, the rains stopped. Maybe I will have to leave it out the rest of the trip...
While we were in Puerto Eden, we had cell coverage and internet. I managed to use up my 150 MB in 2 days instead of the 15 days, oops. We hope you enjoy the few pictures we posted. It is beautiful here, when it is not raining and the clouds lift, that is. Now we are back to just sailmail.
Cheers
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Friday, January 2, 2015
A busy day in Puerto Eden
49 07.659 S, 074 24.718 W
Today was a busy day for us in Puerto Eden, a very small settlement of 86 people on Canal Messier.
The first stop was with the Chilean Armada. A very nice fellow welcomed us and then looked at our passports and tourist visas to make sure we still had time left, which for us is until April 20, 2015. Then he reviewed the zarpe, asked a few questions, reminded us about the red tide areas and told us to change one of the email addresses for our QTH or daily report. Our zarpe indicates that we plan to be in Puerto Williams by February 15 and that still looks good. So we are good to go. We just need to call on the radio to let them know when we are leaving. No problem.
We raised anchor and picked a spot in front of the village and went for a look see. Juan, one of the nice Carabinaras or police man, pointed out where the two grocery stores were and when to find the home of Don Jose and Nelda, where we would purchase some fuel. First stop was fuel. Don Jose is an older gentleman who explained that we should come back in an hour. Ok, so time to check out the stores. The stores were closed so we peeked in the windows to see some of what was available and then walked down to the yellow house beyond the last store. We found out from Frannie B that we could purchase some fresh lettuce here and indeed we did, so salad is back on the menu boys! She also showed us some hand woven baskets and we bought one for a souvenir. Walking back on the boardwalk we rang the bell at the first store and we were able to buy some eggs, potatoes and carrots.
Back to the boat with our loot and the next task is getting fuel. We collected our empty jerry cans, put them in the dingy and rowed over to Don Jose's dock. He invited us in for coffee and fruitcake while we practiced our Spanish. Not the most sophisticated conversation but okay, while we waited for Don Jose's son to be ready. The son brought out a car battery and connected it to a fuel pump with a hose into a large plastic 200 liter drum of fuel and started filling up our jerry cans. We would fill up 7 20 liter jerry cans at a time, row them back to the boat, move the fuel to our larger jerry cans on deck and do it again. We did this complete exercise 3 times and now we have 400 liters of diesel at 1100 pesos per liter or about $1.80 a liter, added on board. This took up most of the afternoon.
After getting the dingy back on the davits we shifted our anchor position as it was getting a little shallow at low tide but we wanted to be close to reduce the distance we needed to row. After a shower we are relaxing from our busy day.
Tomorrow if the weather, wind and tide cooperate we will go to the small wharf and get some water otherwise we will continue our journey south to a safe anchorage before the weather front comes through.
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Today was a busy day for us in Puerto Eden, a very small settlement of 86 people on Canal Messier.
The first stop was with the Chilean Armada. A very nice fellow welcomed us and then looked at our passports and tourist visas to make sure we still had time left, which for us is until April 20, 2015. Then he reviewed the zarpe, asked a few questions, reminded us about the red tide areas and told us to change one of the email addresses for our QTH or daily report. Our zarpe indicates that we plan to be in Puerto Williams by February 15 and that still looks good. So we are good to go. We just need to call on the radio to let them know when we are leaving. No problem.
We raised anchor and picked a spot in front of the village and went for a look see. Juan, one of the nice Carabinaras or police man, pointed out where the two grocery stores were and when to find the home of Don Jose and Nelda, where we would purchase some fuel. First stop was fuel. Don Jose is an older gentleman who explained that we should come back in an hour. Ok, so time to check out the stores. The stores were closed so we peeked in the windows to see some of what was available and then walked down to the yellow house beyond the last store. We found out from Frannie B that we could purchase some fresh lettuce here and indeed we did, so salad is back on the menu boys! She also showed us some hand woven baskets and we bought one for a souvenir. Walking back on the boardwalk we rang the bell at the first store and we were able to buy some eggs, potatoes and carrots.
Back to the boat with our loot and the next task is getting fuel. We collected our empty jerry cans, put them in the dingy and rowed over to Don Jose's dock. He invited us in for coffee and fruitcake while we practiced our Spanish. Not the most sophisticated conversation but okay, while we waited for Don Jose's son to be ready. The son brought out a car battery and connected it to a fuel pump with a hose into a large plastic 200 liter drum of fuel and started filling up our jerry cans. We would fill up 7 20 liter jerry cans at a time, row them back to the boat, move the fuel to our larger jerry cans on deck and do it again. We did this complete exercise 3 times and now we have 400 liters of diesel at 1100 pesos per liter or about $1.80 a liter, added on board. This took up most of the afternoon.
After getting the dingy back on the davits we shifted our anchor position as it was getting a little shallow at low tide but we wanted to be close to reduce the distance we needed to row. After a shower we are relaxing from our busy day.
Tomorrow if the weather, wind and tide cooperate we will go to the small wharf and get some water otherwise we will continue our journey south to a safe anchorage before the weather front comes through.
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Puerto Eden
Thursday, January 1, 2015
Arrived at Puerto Eden
49 07.706 S, 074 25.649 W, Puerto Eden
We started late to catch the tide going through Agostura Inglesa, the narrows before Puerto Eden which was 31 miles south of Caleta Yvonne. Rich got a chance to change the oil and the oil filter on the engine and look at the watermaker which has decided to stop working. Geez! The trip through the narrows was relatively uneventful but at one point Rich was not sure of my waypoints and almost took over control from the autopilot but my waypoint came through. We were anchor down at 8:00 pm in front of the Armada station.
Tomorrow we will check in, then get fuel and provision a little. The main village is across in a small bay and everything is connected via boardwalks as there are no vehicles here. Should be interesting.
Cheers.
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We started late to catch the tide going through Agostura Inglesa, the narrows before Puerto Eden which was 31 miles south of Caleta Yvonne. Rich got a chance to change the oil and the oil filter on the engine and look at the watermaker which has decided to stop working. Geez! The trip through the narrows was relatively uneventful but at one point Rich was not sure of my waypoints and almost took over control from the autopilot but my waypoint came through. We were anchor down at 8:00 pm in front of the Armada station.
Tomorrow we will check in, then get fuel and provision a little. The main village is across in a small bay and everything is connected via boardwalks as there are no vehicles here. Should be interesting.
Cheers.
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