At Seno Morras

44 46.006'S, 72 54.434'W

This morning we awoke to a very chilly boat, frost on the dock and trees, ice on the dodger and snow in the hills. On Sunday Rich worked on the heater that was not behaving only to find that the exhaust tubing had fatigued and we can no longer use the heater until it is fix. This is NOT perfect timing. It is getting colder! We are able to heat water for showers and heat water for circulation in the heater system when we run the engine only.

So we wear more fleece and it is a little hard to get up in the morning to a cold boat.

On the bright side, it was sunny today as we left Puyuhuapi and motored to Seno Morras, an anchorage tucked into the east side of Isla Magdalena. We are travelling with SV Limbo and they have invited us over for dinner tonight as we share this calm, protected anchorage.



A view of Colgante Glacier as seen from the water on a clear day

Tomorrow we will head toward, Isla Hilda.

Trying to keep warm....

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Broken heater

When we were in Puyuhuapi, Rich discovered that the heater was broken and he had chance to do more thorough investigation. Of course, any boat project is never simple and never involves just a small area and this project was no exception.



Some of the small heater spare parts were under the v-berth

The pelican case with the spare units was in the forward head shower. Special caulking for the exhaust is in the cabinet by the head.

Tools are under the lower bunk in the Pullman berth

The salon is a staging and work area, plus more tools and manual

The heater is located under the vanity on the starboard side of the aft stateroom.

Rich discovered that the vibration isolators on the boiler had failed. This caused fatigue of the exhaust ducting. Not all of the exhaust from the heater was going through the duct work and muffler and out the exit on the transom. This was definitely not a good thing so we are unable to use the heater.

As an alternative to heat the boat, we run the engine  to heat water and circulate through the radiators to heat the boat. It is not very efficient but when it is 57 degrees F in the morning inside the boat, something is better than nothing.

We are not sure if we will be able to fix this in Puerto Montt, as the duct is made of a special steel that can take high temperatures ( > 700 degrees F). If we can not get it here we will get the parts when we return to the US and bring them back in the southern spring.

Until then we wear our fleece!

More photos

A few photos so far

Colgante Glacier

We hiked 3 kilometers with an elevation gain of 1000 meters to see this waterfall and the calving glacier. Unfortunately the glacier itself is behind the clouds.

Back in Puyuhuapi

We are back at the marina in Puyuhuapi after two nights on a mooring buoy at Caleta Dorita. On Thursday we took a hike up to Ventisquiero Colgante, the hanging glacier. I have a blog entry with picture but I am unable to post right now as we have limited internet. But I will when we do.

Thursday evening, a 72 foot custom sailboat named Louise arrived and tried to moor to one of the buoys. As they were trying, it was getting dark and raining very hard so what normally would have been an easy task was much more complicated. We wound up switching buoys with them so that they would have enough room to add stern ties to shore and not run aground. They invited us over for drinks and we met Grant and Birgitte, the owners, plus their friends who were visiting and their crew. It was quite an unexpected evening.

That night we got an email from our friends Don and Rita of SV Limbo who would be arriving the next day. So on Friday morning we returned to Marina Puyuhuapi to meet them and give them the grand tour. This was the first time that we arrived some place new ahead of them. They had been leading us starting in Peru.

This morning we woke up to snow on the hilltops. It is definitely getting colder here. We might even have snow tomorrow.

Brrrrrr!

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3/27 Ventisquero Colgante

While we were at Puyuguapi Lodge we took at hike to a lookout of Ventisquero Colgante in the Parque Nacional Queulat. Our guide, Claudio led the way and Edgardo of the Lodge joined us.
Our first stop was the Laguna on the Rio de las Cascadas where we saw a peekaboo view of the hanging glacier. Next we went over a suspension bridge and continued an upward climb for 3.3 kilometers with an altitude gain of 1000 meters. Unfortunately the cloud level descended as we went up so we could not see more of the glacier but we did see large bits fall and smash on the rocks 1000 feet below and heard the rumble sound of the glacier and the ice hitting the ground.

It was a great experience but now we have sore muscles to help us remember the trip.

Puyuhuapi Lodge

44 24.882'S, 72 38.613'W

This morning we walked into town to pay our bill and check out with the Mayor, who also happens to run the marina. One stop shopping. We tried to arrange getting fuel but they do not have a truck to bring it to the pier so we will continue on.

After filling our water tanks we went a whole 7 nautical miles to pick up a mooring buoy at the Puyuhuapi Lodge and hot springs. It is a gorgeous place with a beautiful setting. Sorry but no internet so you will have to wait for pictures. Tonight we are going there for dinner. Woohoo!

You may look it up on the internet at www.puyuhuapilodge.com.

Cheers

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Alfombras de Puyuhuapi

44 19.577'S, 72 34.376'W

Today we walked into town and went to the Alfombras de Puyuhuapi or carpet factory. This factory was created between 1940 and 1945 by a group of young German men who settled here after World War I. Walter Hopperdietzel was one of the four settlers and a textile engineer. He and his father, Gustavo and his brother, Helmut, created a vertical loom for weaving wool cloth and knot carpets. The sheep, wool and labour are provided locally.

It is quite the operation and the rugs are beautiful. They are shipped not only in Chile but around the world. You may find out more about these rugs at their website, www. puyuhuapi.com and you may order them as well.

We also arranged to get fuel tomorrow morning and then we will motor over to the resort for a night or two.

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Puyuhuapi

44 19.577'S, 72 34.376'W

We are still here at the marina. Even though it was totally dark last night, this morning, Barta came to the boat to check us in. The large house at the top of the dock is closed for the season and Barta lives in a small house down the way. It is a little expensive here, 23,000 pesos or about $41 a night. Barta also does laundry which is great. Rich is talking with Manuel about getting fuel.

We walked into town (closer than I thought) and checked it out. There are quite a few hostels as this is a popular tourist place during the summer. It is fairly quiet now. A stop at tourist information yielded a map and directions. We walked around town and then to the 'supermercado' and bought a few items. The owner/operator of the supermercado is also the mayor of the town and the Armada representative so we 'checked in'.

Tomorrow we will explore some more.

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Marina Puyuguapi

44 19.577'S, 72 34.376'W

We passed along one canal and into another, passing waterfalls, salmon and mussel farms, seals, sea lions, penquins, glaciers and settlements. Now we are tied up at the marina at Puyuguapi but there is no one here. I mean no one. We walked up to the house here at the marina and it is all locked up and there is no one around. So, hopefully they are just out for the day and we will see someone tomorrow.

Unfortunately it is too far a walk into town so I am not sure what we will do.

It's a mystery

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Caleta Punta Porvenir

44 15.630'S, 73 07.616'W

We are on our way to Puyuguapi. Hope to arrive tomorrow.
All is well. We are in a small anchorage with a waterfall, many birds including penguins.
Cheers

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Santo Domingo

43 57.446'S, 73 06.384'W

We are now at Santo Domingo, site of a small fishing camp. In the distance we can see some of the glaciers of Mt Melimoyu, which is about 2400 meters high. The scenery includes large granite faces, steep hills covered with green evergreens, slender waterfalls cascading down near vertical rock walls.

Here at Santo Domingo we have seen a few fishing boats, a tender for the salmon farm and three men in a rowboat, going across to the fishing camp.

It is not a very crowded place.

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Still at Puerto Escondido

43 36.746'S, 072 53.400'W

We decided to stay here at Puerto Escondido. Yesterday Rich rebuilt the port side secondary winch in the cockpit. It gets a lot of use as it is for the roller furling lines as well as the port side staysail sheet and boom brake. On Tuesday the winch was making a grinding sound so it definitely needed some work. Now it is greased and cleaned and ready for use.

Today's project was to take off the trim of the starboard salon forward port light. It has been leaking, especially when we are on passage. This is the first time we have done anything to the port lights since we installed them in 2000, so I guess we can't complain. It was a big job removing all of the caulking on the outside and then putting on new Sikoflex and the trim back on.

Our time here has not been all work. We have been reading on our kindles (I now have one too), relaxing and checking out the views of the waterfalls on the hillside and the glaciers and ice on the mountains in the distant. It is very similar to British Columbia, with the trees coming down to the water's edge and near vertical hillsides. We are the only boat here and we are enjoying the piece and quiet.

Tomorrow we plan to head farther south. Maybe to Anihue (any who).

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Puerto Escondido

43 36.746'S, 072 53.400'W

Last night we were awakened at 2:30 am by the Chilean Armada calling on Rich's iphone. I think they wanted to know where we were even though I had sent an email earlier in the evening with our location information. I also think it was a slow night for the fellow on the night shift and I made his evening more interesting. Hopefully I was able to convey that we were safe at anchor and that we would not be at Puerto Montt until April, a month away. He gave me a phone number to call but we are in the land of 'no signal' so they will have to do with my emails.

This morning we left Estero Huildad and crossed the Golfo Corcovado to the mainland and Bahia Tictoc. The tide was flooding for most of the day so we had a rolly, bouncy ride across the gulf, with little wind at least per the yarn on the stanchions. In the afternoon I think we bounced the boat enough that the wind instruments started working again. We are both skeptical but we will see if it continues.

As we entered the bay I saw a whale surface and dive about a boat length and a half in front of us. I called to Rich as he was below but he missed it. Sorry, no pictures.

Now we are anchored in a small bay inland of Bahia Tictoc. It is so quiet, your ears search for sounds. We are the only ones here. It feels special. We might stay here a bit.

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Elvis has left the building

43 04.312'S, 073 31.528'W

We left Marina Quinched at 9:30 am this morning after listening to the Wolfgang net and signing in. The boat performed well as we motored along. Carol of SV Frannie B and I tried the DSC calling on the VHF radio and that worked just fine. The remote mic on the VHF worked as well. It has been acting up and it was difficult for anyone we called to hear us but it was okay today.

In the afternoon we caught the ebbing tide and were speeding along as fast as 8 knots over the ground, compared to our boat speed (yes the speed log it working too) of 5.6 knots. Cool.

We are in a small estuary which we are sharing with a salmon farm. In the distance we can see the snow covered mountains of the mainland. Tomorrow if weather permits we will head across to the mainland side and stop at Bahia Tictoc where it is rumored that some blue whales have been sighted.

It is good to be exploring again...

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Fresh salmon

Yesterday Carol, Ned and I walked across the spit to the blue house in the picture below to buy some salmon. The gentleman walked us over to the opposite shore and picked up the salmon that was caught in his net, a 2 pounder. He took it up to his shed and filleted it for us. It cost 5000 pesos or $8 dollars US. These salmon are escapees from one of the many salmon farms in the area.

Rich took our half, divided it into 2 meal sizes, vacumn packed it and added it to our freezer.

Can't get any fresher than that.

Getting back into cruising mode

Colorful church in Castro

Ned and Carol of SV Frannie B



Windarra at Marina Quinched



My birthday sickle

We have been preparing Windarra and ourselves to do a little cruising in the northern canals of Chile before returning to Puerto Montt in April. The preparation has included getting rides into Castro and Chonchi with William, who owns Marina Quinched. We had some laundry done in Castro as the weather has not been conducive to drying everything on the life lines. There we visited the Unimarc, as well as Market Brujula, the fresh vegetable tienda and the carniceria, where Rich was able to buy some fresh lamb. A trip into Chonchi allowed us to fill some jerry jugs with diesel and check out the grocery store there as well. We think we have enough supplies for at least a month.

 

Last night we had Ned and Carol of SV Frannie B over for dinner. Rich made a great lamb curry for my birthday. Carol brought over some 'black bottom cupcakes'. They also gave me a very sharp sickle for my birthday and they explained that this is a very useful tool for cutting kelp off the chain and anchor. In the picture above, it still has some protecting tape and paper on it so I did not cut myself when opening the package. Not sure if I am looking forward to doing this but now I will have a good tool for the job.

 

Windarra will be off 'the grid' for a while so please use the sailmail address to get ahold of us. Not to worry as we may not be able to respond right away depending on the reception of our HF radio. We are looking forward to exploring and getting away from the dock. Life is very easy at the dock and William is a great host but it is time to move on. 

Chonchi church

Another church on Isla Chiloe, in the town of Chonchi.

Back on Windarra

We returned safely to Windarra on Tuesday, March 4, with uneventful flights to Santiago and Puerto Montt, the bus to Castro and the taxi to Marina Quinched.

We moved Windarra to the dock so we can fill the water tanks, charge up the batteries, provision, check out the systems and prepare to do some cruising in the canals. Our friends, Ned and Carol of SV Frannie B are also here at Marina Quinched. The last time we saw them was for lunch in Seattle in 2013 so we have a lot of catching up to do. They have done some cruising in this area and last night they were over for drinks and they brought their charts to show us where they have been and where we might want to explore.

No sure when we will leave the dock but when we do we will be in more remote areas which means no internet, no cell phone but only sailmail and HF radio for communication.

Rich and I are looking forward to seeing some glaciers and wilderness areas. It will be a switch from the bug cities of Philadelphia, Santiago and Buenos Aires. I think we have had enough travel on airplanes as well.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Inside the Galleria Pacifico shopping mall, definitely upscale

South American version of Big Ben built by the British. The Argentinians built a monument to the fallen of the 'Falklands War' just opposite.

This is the Cathedral that Pope Francis served in Buenos Aires

Repairing the mosaic floor of the cathedral, tile by tile

Camanito street, the birthplace of the Tango. It is said that the buildings are painted using paint left over from the ships. I can't say that I have seen many ships in these colors

Staircase and elevators on the RSS Mariner, the cruise ship

Nancy & Doug invited us on their cruise ship for dinner

View of Buenos Aires from their cabin at sunset

Teatre Colon, the famous Buenos Aires opera house



Check out the tourists

A little side trip, Buenos Aires

34 35.817 S, 58 22,448 S

Some of you might be wondering where we are. Recently we were in Chile, then Philadelphia, then Santiago, then back at Windarra. Well, now we are in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Our good friends, Doug and Nancy, have been enjoying a cruise from Lima, through Chile, the Falkand Islands to Buenos Aires. Originally we were going to meet them along the way in Chile. Rich and I thought it over and decided to also meet them in Buenos Aires when they arrive, spend some time with them before they head off to Mendoza for some wine tasting and then back to Bainbridge Island. This was planned back in January. We missed meeting in Chile but here we are in Argentina.

We arrived early Thursday morning via bus from Castro, a stop in Puerto Montt to deliver some boat parts to Margie and Chris of SV Storm Bay of Hobart and then flights to Santiago and Buenos Aires.

It is now Sunday afternoon and we have enjoyed a wonder dinner and drinks on a their cruise shop, tours of the city, shopping for tango shoes, a tour of the famous Teatre Colon opera house, a tango show as well as fun meals at sidewalk cafes and interesting restaurants.

This is a group selfie in front of the Obelisk. Can you tell we are having fun?