Thursday, February 21, 2013

Crossing the Golfo de Tehuantepec

In like a lion, out like a lamb

We have been watching the gribs for the Tehuantepec for several days. Like any major passage or crossing you watch the weather and try to pick the best window for the entire route as we did not want to get part way and have the weather deteriorate as there is no place to duck in along the route. You are committed for the entire way. Leaving Tuesday at 5:00 pm seemed like a good bet for the 250+ nautical mile passage from Marina Chahue to Puerto Chiapis (formerly Puerto Medero).

When we left at 5 pm, the winds were 8-10 knots with a favorable current of 2 knots and the seas were fair. The gribs indicated that the winds south of Salina Cruz would increase to 15-20 in the evening but decreasing over the next two days along the coast. This sounds good, no problem, right? As the evening progressed, the winds increased, 25-33 knots, and our plus current became a minus current. Motor sailing as the winds were on are nose and against the current we were bashing along at 2-3 knots SOG, and burning fuel to do it. Waves are crashing over the bow, the v berth hatch and the salon port lights are leaking, everything on deck has been covered with salt water. Remember that rule about sailing and keeping the ocean out of the boat? Well, we broke the rule a bit, not by choice mind you. Rich's re-caulking of the salt water wash down thru-deck was working so that was a plus.

To top it off, Salina Cruz is a major shipping port and we had to cross the shipping lanes. Everything was all clear until we were crossing the last in bound lane and a large ship was entering. These are the times we are glad we have AIS and that we are transmitting as well as receiving. The ship was able to see that we were at a snails pace, reduced their speed and headed for the left side of the lane as we crossed to the right. No problem.

At this point our hindsight told us we should have waited one more day, but as we were 'committed', on we went. The seas flattened, the winds abated, adverse current disappeared and a positive current reappeared. For most of Wednesday, the winds were in the 10-15 knot range. We saw lots of dolphins but not much else. Wednesday evening the winds decreased to 1-3 knots and the seas flattened to a slow period swell. The fishing fleet came out. Large vessels in rows dragging nets, usually in the direction we were going so it was easier to pass between them.

Thursday morning we saw fishermen in pangas. One came by and we gave them a jug of water. Sorry we have no tortillas.

We were tied up at the dock at Marina Chiapis by 9:45 am. Now it is time to check in and wash off some of this salt!

Sent from SV Windarra iPad

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