Yesterday we left Clube Naval Charitas and stopped across the way at the fuel dock to top off our tanks and by 9:30am we were on our way leaving Rio de Janeiro. We had hoped to sail to Buzios but it was not in the cards. It did seem like a lot of large ship traffic was going the same direction which makes AIS very helpful.
We had a small tern come and hitchhike for a while, sitting on the lifelines on the port side foredeck. He/she was with us for several hours.
Early this morning we had to slow down so that we had more daylight for our entry to Buzios. The town is a popular vacation spot. Unfortunately we did not see any open moorings so we are anchored but don't feel comfortable leaving the boat if the winds change.
But the gribs look promising, so we will relax and then tonight we will continue northward to Vitoria, a 190 nautical miles away.
Sent from Elaine's iPhone
Monday, February 29, 2016
Saturday, February 27, 2016
Sailing license, Turistas
On Tuesday we moved to the dock at Clube Naval Charitas. It is a large facility with a haul out area, covered storage for small sailboats, small chandlery, restaurant, bar and most important, a large swimming pool!
A short walk from the club is a catamaran to downtown Rio. As Rich is over 60, he rides for free! The ride is about 20 minutes and from the dock we either caught a taxi around town.
On our first ride we walked over to the Capitan dos Portos to check in. Up until this day it has been a low key event. Unfortunately, someone in the office was upset about something and we were berated for not having a sailing license. No where in any of the cruising guides or online websites such as Noonsite or SSCA is there a mention of needing a sailing license in Brazil if you are a foreign cruiser. We tried very patiently to explain that we did not have one but that we have records showing that we have over 25,000 blue water miles of experience, including Cabo de Hornas. Eventually they asked for our phone number and said they would come to the boat. For an inspection? Or ? We explained that we had plans to do some sightseeing and may not be at the boat. No problem, they would call first. Well, so far, no calls.
As you can see from the photos in our last post we having been doing some sightseeing. We took the gondola up to Pao do Acucar aka Sugarloaf Mountain. The views were great and we dodged the people with selfie sticks. Another day we went to Ipanema. There we found a Starbucks so we could add a Brazil cup to our collection and have a frappacino at the same time. We walked along the beach and saw a bazillion people. We also made a stop at the H Stern museum, a famous worldwide jeweler that started here in Brazil.
At Clube Naval Charitas we met Susy. She was born in England but has spent most of her life in Brazil. She and her husband did a circumnavigation in the late 1970s and she is a godsend to foreign cruisers as she is fluent in English, French and Portuguese. One of the photos in the previous post is of Rich and Susy on one of the hilltops overlooking Niterio and Rio. She gave us the Cook's tour and took us to a great supermercado for provisioning. Thank you Susy.
Now it is Saturday and plenty hot. It is 93 but according to the Weather Channel it feels like 112. Time to go to the pool.
We hope to leave tomorrow for Buzios. It will be an overnight passage around Cabo Frio. I wonder why it has that name?
Sent from Elaine's iPhone
A short walk from the club is a catamaran to downtown Rio. As Rich is over 60, he rides for free! The ride is about 20 minutes and from the dock we either caught a taxi around town.
On our first ride we walked over to the Capitan dos Portos to check in. Up until this day it has been a low key event. Unfortunately, someone in the office was upset about something and we were berated for not having a sailing license. No where in any of the cruising guides or online websites such as Noonsite or SSCA is there a mention of needing a sailing license in Brazil if you are a foreign cruiser. We tried very patiently to explain that we did not have one but that we have records showing that we have over 25,000 blue water miles of experience, including Cabo de Hornas. Eventually they asked for our phone number and said they would come to the boat. For an inspection? Or ? We explained that we had plans to do some sightseeing and may not be at the boat. No problem, they would call first. Well, so far, no calls.
As you can see from the photos in our last post we having been doing some sightseeing. We took the gondola up to Pao do Acucar aka Sugarloaf Mountain. The views were great and we dodged the people with selfie sticks. Another day we went to Ipanema. There we found a Starbucks so we could add a Brazil cup to our collection and have a frappacino at the same time. We walked along the beach and saw a bazillion people. We also made a stop at the H Stern museum, a famous worldwide jeweler that started here in Brazil.
At Clube Naval Charitas we met Susy. She was born in England but has spent most of her life in Brazil. She and her husband did a circumnavigation in the late 1970s and she is a godsend to foreign cruisers as she is fluent in English, French and Portuguese. One of the photos in the previous post is of Rich and Susy on one of the hilltops overlooking Niterio and Rio. She gave us the Cook's tour and took us to a great supermercado for provisioning. Thank you Susy.
Now it is Saturday and plenty hot. It is 93 but according to the Weather Channel it feels like 112. Time to go to the pool.
We hope to leave tomorrow for Buzios. It will be an overnight passage around Cabo Frio. I wonder why it has that name?
Sent from Elaine's iPhone
Friday, February 26, 2016
Sunday, February 21, 2016
Rio, Rio de Janeiro, Oh, Oh
22 55.907 S, 043 06.337 W Niterio, Rio de Janeiro
I tried to look for the reflection of stars in the water at Saco do Ceu but the overcast skies meant no stars.
Yesterday morning, 2/20, we were up at 6:15 am and up anchor at 7:30 am after our morning cuppa. With little or no wind we motored our way to Rio de Janeiro. It was a long day and around 6:00 pm we passed Ipanema and Copacobana beaches with Christ the Redeemer statue high on the hilltop overlooking the city. We were not close enough to see any details of the beach but enough to see that it was busy with people. Passing by Sugarloaf we crossed the channel entrance to Niterio which is across the bay from 'downtown' and anchored just before 7:00 pm in front of the Clube Naval de Charitas, a yacht club recommended by our friends on SV Storm Bay of Hobart.
Rich and I sat down in the cockpit to rest a bit and enjoy our CDA* drinks (Cheated Death Again), but our celebration was premature. Had we displeased Neptune in some way?
It was starting to get dark. In the distance we could see thunderheads as we had approached the city but we thought that we would be okay.
First our anchor started to drag. Rich fired up the engine and we turned all of the navigation equipment back on. I went forward to help with bringing up the anchor. The winds were picking up and the seas were too. On the radar we could see where land was but everything else was covered with rain. The anchor came up but was caught on some line. Let it down and back up and luckily the line came off. Now the winds were up to 34 knots. The water was frothy, the wind howling, the rain coming down in torrents. Rich steered the boat over our original course coming in, back and forth over about a half a mile, waiting for the storm to pass. As we have our sunscreens around the bimini, whenever the wind was behind us, the cockpit and Rich would get soaked. We could hear the rain splashing on the deck when it filled the mainsail to overflowing and the boat would heel in the wind.
Finally the storm passed after about 45 minutes. We re-anchored with plenty of chain and reset the anchor alarm.
Welcome to Rio.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
I tried to look for the reflection of stars in the water at Saco do Ceu but the overcast skies meant no stars.
Yesterday morning, 2/20, we were up at 6:15 am and up anchor at 7:30 am after our morning cuppa. With little or no wind we motored our way to Rio de Janeiro. It was a long day and around 6:00 pm we passed Ipanema and Copacobana beaches with Christ the Redeemer statue high on the hilltop overlooking the city. We were not close enough to see any details of the beach but enough to see that it was busy with people. Passing by Sugarloaf we crossed the channel entrance to Niterio which is across the bay from 'downtown' and anchored just before 7:00 pm in front of the Clube Naval de Charitas, a yacht club recommended by our friends on SV Storm Bay of Hobart.
Rich and I sat down in the cockpit to rest a bit and enjoy our CDA* drinks (Cheated Death Again), but our celebration was premature. Had we displeased Neptune in some way?
It was starting to get dark. In the distance we could see thunderheads as we had approached the city but we thought that we would be okay.
First our anchor started to drag. Rich fired up the engine and we turned all of the navigation equipment back on. I went forward to help with bringing up the anchor. The winds were picking up and the seas were too. On the radar we could see where land was but everything else was covered with rain. The anchor came up but was caught on some line. Let it down and back up and luckily the line came off. Now the winds were up to 34 knots. The water was frothy, the wind howling, the rain coming down in torrents. Rich steered the boat over our original course coming in, back and forth over about a half a mile, waiting for the storm to pass. As we have our sunscreens around the bimini, whenever the wind was behind us, the cockpit and Rich would get soaked. We could hear the rain splashing on the deck when it filled the mainsail to overflowing and the boat would heel in the wind.
Finally the storm passed after about 45 minutes. We re-anchored with plenty of chain and reset the anchor alarm.
Welcome to Rio.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Friday, February 19, 2016
Seco do Ceu, Ilha Grande
23 06.535 S, 044 12.768 W
We stayed one more night at Paraty as Rich had to change some bolts that hold the alternator in place. It was nice to have free wifi from Marina 188 as well.
This morning we left around 9:30 am and it was a motor with no wind all the way to Ilha Grande, about 36 nautical miles. We are anchored at Seco do Ceu, or inlet of the stars. Rumor has it that the water is so still at night you can see the reflection of the stars. So we are going to check in out and will let you know. The inlet has a few restaurants and a resort or two. We have seen a few tour boats come through. The rest is dense jungle. Some friends of our say there are monkeys on the island. I went swimming after we got settled and the water is about 87 degrees F, like a bathtub, but nice after the hot day motoring.
There is a Brazilian couple also anchored here. Noosa, paddled over on her kayak and we chatted for a bit. They are from Sao San Francisco and are slowly working their way north. She gave us some information about Ilha Grande.
We are trying to decide if we should get up early tomorrow morning and head to Rio de Janeiro, some 67 nautical miles or to wait a day and then go. Have to look at the gribs and decide.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We stayed one more night at Paraty as Rich had to change some bolts that hold the alternator in place. It was nice to have free wifi from Marina 188 as well.
This morning we left around 9:30 am and it was a motor with no wind all the way to Ilha Grande, about 36 nautical miles. We are anchored at Seco do Ceu, or inlet of the stars. Rumor has it that the water is so still at night you can see the reflection of the stars. So we are going to check in out and will let you know. The inlet has a few restaurants and a resort or two. We have seen a few tour boats come through. The rest is dense jungle. Some friends of our say there are monkeys on the island. I went swimming after we got settled and the water is about 87 degrees F, like a bathtub, but nice after the hot day motoring.
There is a Brazilian couple also anchored here. Noosa, paddled over on her kayak and we chatted for a bit. They are from Sao San Francisco and are slowly working their way north. She gave us some information about Ilha Grande.
We are trying to decide if we should get up early tomorrow morning and head to Rio de Janeiro, some 67 nautical miles or to wait a day and then go. Have to look at the gribs and decide.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Wednesday, February 17, 2016
Paraty
We took our dingy in and met with Leonardo, the marina manager. Even though we are anchored out we are able to use some of the facilities of the marina.
We caught a bus into town and met with the port captain to have our papers signed. Lunch was next at a lovely restaurant in the old part of town where the streets are cobbled and are flooded at certain high tides but that is okay, all of the entrances are up a step.
On the way back to the marina we hired a boat taxi so we had some views of town.
Tomorrow we plan to go to Ilha Grande!
Monday, February 15, 2016
Beautiful Ilhabela
Saturday, Tomy and his wife, Gracie, picked us up and we drove in their 4 wheel drive up and over the island to the Atlantic side to a place called Castelhanos. It is a gorgeous white sand beach. Only 4 wheel drive vehicles are allowed to use the 'road' through the national park. It is definitely remote. We enjoyed the company, the warm water and a delicious meal at a small restaurant on the beach.
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
Ilhabela
We arrived on Sunday and anchored off the beach north of the Ilhabela yacht club for two nights. Now we are on a mooring with the yacht club.
Ilhabela is an island just off
Sao Sebastian. It is a very popular spot for vacationing and boating. Sailboats, powerboats - large and small,
Jetskis, dingies, classic yachts abound. Unfortunately a lot of their activities churns up the water making it rolly at times. There is not much in the way of etiquette in the mooring field. Speed boats zip by at 5 plus knots until they get to the dock only a few yards away from us.
The hillsides are filled with homes and hotels in between the palm trees and dense vegetation all very green and lush.
It is a balmy 93 degrees but feels like 101, at least according to the weather channel. When we go into town we hope to find places with air conditioning.
Tomorrow the sailmaker is supposed to come and help take off the old main so he can remove some of the sail hardware like the battens and batten cars and move to the new sail.
We are having a few problems with the alternator and the pressure water system that we need to work as well. It is always something.
Sent from Elaine's iPhone
Ilhabela is an island just off
Sao Sebastian. It is a very popular spot for vacationing and boating. Sailboats, powerboats - large and small,
Jetskis, dingies, classic yachts abound. Unfortunately a lot of their activities churns up the water making it rolly at times. There is not much in the way of etiquette in the mooring field. Speed boats zip by at 5 plus knots until they get to the dock only a few yards away from us.
The hillsides are filled with homes and hotels in between the palm trees and dense vegetation all very green and lush.
It is a balmy 93 degrees but feels like 101, at least according to the weather channel. When we go into town we hope to find places with air conditioning.
Tomorrow the sailmaker is supposed to come and help take off the old main so he can remove some of the sail hardware like the battens and batten cars and move to the new sail.
We are having a few problems with the alternator and the pressure water system that we need to work as well. It is always something.
Sent from Elaine's iPhone
Sunday, February 7, 2016
Almost there
24 00.138 S, 45 43.579 W
We have about 25 nautical miles to go to get to Ilhabela. We have been sailing most of the time but this morning around 8:15 am we decided to furl the sails and turn on the engine as the winds were dying.
Last night was fairly uneventful except for the occasional flash of lightening in the distance, so I put the electronics back in the microwave just to be safe. We are looking forward to arriving and getting settled for a few days. It might be a little tricky as it is Carnival and our Portuguese is less than perfect, so we will see. Our sailmaker, Gabriel, of North Sails, provided some suggestions but also with a note that no English is spoken.
Should be interesting.....
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We have about 25 nautical miles to go to get to Ilhabela. We have been sailing most of the time but this morning around 8:15 am we decided to furl the sails and turn on the engine as the winds were dying.
Last night was fairly uneventful except for the occasional flash of lightening in the distance, so I put the electronics back in the microwave just to be safe. We are looking forward to arriving and getting settled for a few days. It might be a little tricky as it is Carnival and our Portuguese is less than perfect, so we will see. Our sailmaker, Gabriel, of North Sails, provided some suggestions but also with a note that no English is spoken.
Should be interesting.....
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Saturday, February 6, 2016
On our way to Ilhabela
25 32.815 S, 047 00.670 W
Yesterday morning we raised anchor and went to the fuel dock at the yacht club. We filled our fuel tanks and got some water too then headed off. We are glad we were putting Porto Belo behind us as the storm clouds moved in. As we headed north we could hear the thunder. Late last night and very early this morning we saw flashes of lightening in the distance to port. I gathered the small electronics, put them in an anti-static bag and then in the microwave to keep them safe in case we were struck. All is well on that.
We hope to reach Ilhabela on Sunday afternoon. We will be arriving during Carnival so much will be closed but it should be interesting.
Right now we have a large pod of dolphins swimming and jumping in the air by the boat. They sure look like they are having fun.
Cheers,
Elaine and Rich
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Yesterday morning we raised anchor and went to the fuel dock at the yacht club. We filled our fuel tanks and got some water too then headed off. We are glad we were putting Porto Belo behind us as the storm clouds moved in. As we headed north we could hear the thunder. Late last night and very early this morning we saw flashes of lightening in the distance to port. I gathered the small electronics, put them in an anti-static bag and then in the microwave to keep them safe in case we were struck. All is well on that.
We hope to reach Ilhabela on Sunday afternoon. We will be arriving during Carnival so much will be closed but it should be interesting.
Right now we have a large pod of dolphins swimming and jumping in the air by the boat. They sure look like they are having fun.
Cheers,
Elaine and Rich
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Friday, February 5, 2016
A nice day at anchor
Yesterday we stayed at the anchorage as our weather window opens today. We had crowds of tourist pirates as many as 3 boat loads around us. This morning a large cruise ship appeared in the bay. More turistas!
Today we hope to get fuel and then head for Ilhabela about 270 nautical miles north.
Cheers
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Today we hope to get fuel and then head for Ilhabela about 270 nautical miles north.
Cheers
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Thursday, February 4, 2016
At anchor Caixa de Aco
27 07.730 S, 048 31.741 W
We were not sure what to expect as we entered Porto Belo. Instead of a small village, we saw high rise apartments and condominiums several blocks deep lining the long beach around the bay.
We are anchored at Caixa de Aco, near Porto Belo. I think caixa means cove in Portuguese but since no wifi I can't look it up. It is surrounded by large homes and dense jungle like vegetation. There are two floating restaurants at the head of the cove. It is also a popular place for tourist boats in pirate motif. They motor by, wave, anchor and disgorge their passengers into the water. Some jump, others 'walk the plank' via a slide out the stern. After a while and a tout on the boat's horn, the tourists climb back on and they motor away. We feel safe from this brand of 'pirate'.
It is nice to be at anchor and have a good night's sleep. We will wait for the northerlies to go by and then continue on to Ilhabela.
The stowaway flew off as we came close to shore. Not sure if this was his intended stop or not.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We were not sure what to expect as we entered Porto Belo. Instead of a small village, we saw high rise apartments and condominiums several blocks deep lining the long beach around the bay.
We are anchored at Caixa de Aco, near Porto Belo. I think caixa means cove in Portuguese but since no wifi I can't look it up. It is surrounded by large homes and dense jungle like vegetation. There are two floating restaurants at the head of the cove. It is also a popular place for tourist boats in pirate motif. They motor by, wave, anchor and disgorge their passengers into the water. Some jump, others 'walk the plank' via a slide out the stern. After a while and a tout on the boat's horn, the tourists climb back on and they motor away. We feel safe from this brand of 'pirate'.
It is nice to be at anchor and have a good night's sleep. We will wait for the northerlies to go by and then continue on to Ilhabela.
The stowaway flew off as we came close to shore. Not sure if this was his intended stop or not.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Wednesday, February 3, 2016
Changing direction
27 22.752 S, 048 13.236 W
We have been watching the gribs and decided to change direction and head for Porto Belo to avoid the northerlies and then continue on to Ilhabela.
Yesterday we found a stowaway. It is a small kingfisher. It has a brown back, yellow chest, black beak with a black stripe extending around his head with a white stripe below it. He has been hopping around, watching us in the cockpit with a sure eye. Thinking of calling him Passepatout but I don't think he will be with us for 80 days, more like 80 hours at most.
We also had a group of dolphins visit this morning. This is the most activity we have had in days.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We have been watching the gribs and decided to change direction and head for Porto Belo to avoid the northerlies and then continue on to Ilhabela.
Yesterday we found a stowaway. It is a small kingfisher. It has a brown back, yellow chest, black beak with a black stripe extending around his head with a white stripe below it. He has been hopping around, watching us in the cockpit with a sure eye. Thinking of calling him Passepatout but I don't think he will be with us for 80 days, more like 80 hours at most.
We also had a group of dolphins visit this morning. This is the most activity we have had in days.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Tuesday, February 2, 2016
Squalls
29 29.920 S, 049 01.841 W
We had some good sailing yesterday afternoon. Last night the winds died off and this morning we had an adverse current and squalls. Oh Boy!
We are thinking of Porto Belo as a possible alternative if the winds continue from the north.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
We had some good sailing yesterday afternoon. Last night the winds died off and this morning we had an adverse current and squalls. Oh Boy!
We are thinking of Porto Belo as a possible alternative if the winds continue from the north.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Monday, February 1, 2016
Left Rio Grande, headed for Ilhabela
31 11.777 S, 050 25.637 W
Yesterday, 1/31, we had hoped to get out early but first we had to go to the bank and then find the fuel dock. We had general idea where is was. There was a Shell station sign which we believed pointed the way. Not, it was the dock with the sign Posto Marine. Any way the Brazilian fishermen whose boat we rafted to, and to find where the fuel dock was were very nice and helpful even though they did not speak any English or Spanish. It took a lot of our communication skills.
The fuel dock was fine and we filled most of our jerry jugs. We went to pay but we did not have exact change, so we gave a bit larger amount. The attendant was very concerned about this until we explained that we did not need the four dollars worth of change.
So now we are northbound again. We would like to go all the way to Ilhabela which is about 640 nautical miles. If not, the Stormies suggested an anchorage near the north side of Ihla de Santa Catarina, about 400 miles.
We will check the gribs daily and let you know.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Yesterday, 1/31, we had hoped to get out early but first we had to go to the bank and then find the fuel dock. We had general idea where is was. There was a Shell station sign which we believed pointed the way. Not, it was the dock with the sign Posto Marine. Any way the Brazilian fishermen whose boat we rafted to, and to find where the fuel dock was were very nice and helpful even though they did not speak any English or Spanish. It took a lot of our communication skills.
The fuel dock was fine and we filled most of our jerry jugs. We went to pay but we did not have exact change, so we gave a bit larger amount. The attendant was very concerned about this until we explained that we did not need the four dollars worth of change.
So now we are northbound again. We would like to go all the way to Ilhabela which is about 640 nautical miles. If not, the Stormies suggested an anchorage near the north side of Ihla de Santa Catarina, about 400 miles.
We will check the gribs daily and let you know.
----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)