Saturday, July 31, 2010

FOG, FOG and more FOG

N 54 19.596, W 130 23.790
Pillsbury Cove across from Prince Rupert

This morning we were up and ready to go at 9:00 am but it was foggy and we could only see the near shore at the anchorage, so we waited to see what developed. We checked again at 10:00 am and the near shore was foggy as well. At 11:00 am, there was a slight change so we decided to turn on the radar and the AIS and head to Prince Rupert.

As we left we could see the shoreline on either side of the entry to the anchorage but little else. It continued to get thicker. We could see images of boats going by us on the radar, but we could not hear them or see them even if they were 300 - 400 meters from the boat. At one point we could see the top of a hillside and blue sky but nothing around us on the water. It was like we had a personal bubble around the boat. We even passed a large ship, over 200 meters long but we could not see it. We also passed a cement factory but again, never saw it. A sailboat came along side us and would appear and disappear in the fog.

Fortunately when we enter Prince Rupert harbor proper, it was clear of fog with blue skies. If we turned around and look back outside the harbor, the fog sits like a blanket over the water.

We were able to take on fuel and water but no moorage to be had so we are at an anchorage across from town. It is quite nice in fact.

Tomorrow we will see if we can get a slip at the Prince Rupert Yacht Club so we can do laundry and do a little provisioning.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Friday, July 30, 2010

Orcas!

N 54 00.951, W 130 16.297
Between Porcher and Lewis Islands, Arthur Passage

This morning we got up at 6:00 am with the idea of leaving before the winds built and with a favorable current. The winds in the anchorage were 2-3 knots. By the time we got out into Grenville channel, the winds were 22 knots and we were being set by both wind and current. This was going to be a long day if we had to face wind and current the whole way. We would call it a slog - to walk slowly and heavily. Around 10:00 am the winds backed off to 7-10 knots and we were no longer being set. Hooray.

Along the way we saw 2 orcas, heading the opposite direction. This is the first orcas I have seen. Of course the minute I get the camera ready and get out of the cockpit to take a picture, they are gone. But Rich is my witness, he saw them also.

We passed the BC ferry, Northern Expedition, southbound. This is the third time we have passed this ferry, always going in the same direction. They must pass us the other direction at night when we are sleeping.

As we left Grenville channel for Arthur Passage we entered the fog. We used our radar to enter the anchorage as we could not see it otherwise. It wasn't until we were almost ready to anchor that we saw another sailboat at anchor. The fog lifted in the anchorage but remained in the passage. I saw a fishing boat go by with the blanket of fog behind it. Right now it is almost 5:00 pm and the fog is settling in the anchorage but it is clear in the passage. We will have to monitor the fog tomorrow for our passage to Prince Rupert.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Thursday, July 29, 2010

A lay day

N 53 42.694, W 129 43.560
Klewnuggit Inlet, Grenville Channel

This morning we woke up at 6:00 am and decided that this anchorage is too nice to leave and that we should stay another night. And then we went back to sleep for a bit more!

After a leisurely breakfast and some time to read our books, we did some chores. Rich added some cleats to secure part of the cabinetry in the aft stateroom where we plug in our phone charger. Before we left, Rich got a new Nikon, digital SLR camera. Today he is able to spend some time with it. I have been removing the screens from the portlights, replacing the old screen material with new mosquito netting. I finished the last five today. This allows us to open the portlights for air and not having to deal with the bugs. At this anchorage and others there are some nasty green-headed flies which give a very sharp bite, even through socks and jeans, which itch like crazy. Paradise does come with a price.

We have had the anchorage to ourselves for most of the day as the other boats left early this morning. A powerboat came in after lunch. The winds were calm this morning but this afternoon they built to 10-12 knots in the anchorage. I can imagine that they are much stronger in the channel. The new plan is to leave early in the morning before they build.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Up the channel

N 53 42.694, W 129 43.560
Klewnuggit Inlet, Grenville Channel

This morning we lifted anchor around 10:00 am and motored by the settlement at Hartley Bay to see if we had cell phone coverage. No joy, so we continued up Grenville Channel, the highway to Prince Rupert. We had the current with us and at one point we were doing 9.6 knots over the ground, 6.0 knots of which were boat speed, the other 3.6 knots was current.

We listened to a report from an 85 foot powerboat, Moonshadow, that had lost both engines and was adrift in Graham Reach at the north end of Princess Royal Island. Now having your engine go out, no matter what type of boat is a bad thing. To have both engines go out, is even worse, especially when you don't have any sails either. A boat in the vicinity, helped them to Coghan Anchorage, where we were last night. Later we heard they were looking for someone to tow them to Prince Rupert, about 75+ miles away. Ouch.

We are now in Klewnuggit Inlet at the anchorage far in the back, about 4 miles from the entry. We are in 21 meters of water and the surrounding hills go up from sea level to July snow level. There are only 2 other boats in the anchorage, and more than shouting distance away. The sun is out, it is warm, dinner will be ready soon, we are having cocktails and enjoying shrimp cocktail courtesy of Margie on SV Dreamcatcher.

It doesn't get any better than this....

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Rowing south

N 53 23.905, W 129 17.182
Coghlan Anchorage, Hartley Bay, Grenville Channel

This morning the tide was out and the shore was a lot closer than when we anchored yesterday. We still were in 8 meters of water but it did look a little strange. Margie checked her pots this morning and brought us 6 prawns which we will have for dinner tomorrow.

We continued up Graham Reach, Fraser Reach and into Wright Sound. We saw a fellow in a one-man shell with some gear in the front rowing south along the shore. It just proves that you do not need a big boat to go north. In one of the guide books there is a picture of a fellow on a jet-ski that went from Victoria to Skagway. Hmmm. I will take Windarra, thank you very much.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Monday, July 26, 2010

Dinner at Khutze Inlet

N 53 05.359, W 128 30.592
Khutze Inlet

We left Bottleneck Inlet this morning and went through Hiekish Narrows and up Graham Reach to Khutze Inlet.

Chuck and Margie of Dreamcatcher were anchored behind the spit not too far from the entrance to the inlet. We dropped anchor a bit beyond them. From the boat we can look up the mountains and see snow. Unfortunately there are a lot of green head flies so we quickly put up our screens around the cockpit. Margie came by for a visit as she went to check her crab and shrimp pots.

After a chance to relax and take a shower we used the dingy to go over to Dreamcatcher. We brought a bottle of champagne and a small gift to toast Chuck's birthday. We feasted on crab and artichoke dip, fresh bagels, a salad that Rich made and prawns barbequed with orange and grapefruit slices. Yum! We had a great time catching up and where we both had been and future plans. They gave us some tips of anchorages further north.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Whale under the waterfall

N 52 42.578, W 128 24.459
Bottleneck Inlet, Roderick Island

Saturday we took on fuel and got a slip at Shearwater Marina. This gave us a chance to do laundry, provision, stop at the marine store, take on water, check the internet and have lunch at the Fisherman's Bar and Grill. Lunch was great and very sedate. This place does have a reputation for being a bit rowdy on Saturday nights but we were at the farthest slip so we did not hear anything.

This morning we left and continued to work our way north. We are trying to meet up with Chuck and Margie on SV Dreamcatcher on Monday so we put in a long day, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm. Our route took us through Reid Passage, very scenic, and narrow with low lying islands and also through Oscar Passage. Toward the end of Oscar Passage is a waterfall on the north side. We had been watching blow from a humpback whale near the waterfall. Apparently the whale liked the waterfall as well since we saw him poke his head up below the waterfall and also do a tail slap. I hope that was a sign of approval.

Bottleneck Inlet is a long fjord with a narrow entry. We are sharing it with 3 other boats. It is very calm, quiet and relaxing after motoring all day. It's cocktail hour....

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Friday, July 23, 2010

Shearwater

N 52 08.961, W 128 04.960
Shearwater, Denny Island

This morning we woke up to sunny skies. The anchorage was still and we saw a whale out in Burke Channel going northeast. We sat in the cockpit, drinking our coffee and enjoying the scenery. Wow!

We motored up Fisher Channel and then Lama Passage. A whale was outbound as we were inbound. I got my camera already for a tail shot but he was gone. Farther up the passage (it is 7 miles long) we passed the small town of New Bella Bella, across from Old Bella Bella and around to Shearwater. Shearwater is home to a fishing resort and a marina. There was no room for us so we anchored out. We will check tomorrow morning to see if a spot opens up. We used the dingy to go in and provision at the small grocery/liquor store. It is a lot larger than the store at Pierre's at Echo Bay. They even have kitty litter!

Tomorrow we will do laundry, get fuel and perhaps some other chores depending on whether we get a slip or not. There is wireless at the dock so I will try and connect. No cell phone yet.

The marine layer has started to roll back in and it is overcast now.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Thar she blows

N 51 54.423, W 127 51.285
Fougner Bay, Fitz Hugh Sound

This morning we left Millbrook Cove and went out Smith Sound and back into the swells. Unfortunately the direction of the swell was not complementary to the direction we wanted to go so it was rolly and uncomfortable. The passage along Calvert Island was similar to Malaspina as the winds climbed to 20 knots on our nose so we had wind over tide but at least the swells were gone. We saw several small runabouts with people fishing. I saw a sea lion with a large salmon in his mouth. At least someone was catching fish. Eventually the winds died in Fitz Hugh Sound and seas calmed.

The exciting part of the trip was after we passed Namu. We saw a humpback whale blow, dive and then breech. It did this several times. We also saw numerous tail slaps. As we started to turn towards our planned anchorage we saw one blow and then dive about 30 meters in front of us, so we maintained course and reduced speed. We searched looking to see if it had passed or not. Just as we started up we saw it ahead and off to starboard in the direction we were intending. We slowed again. No sign again so we proceeded to our anchorage. After we had anchored Rich told me he saw it again off to starboard but we had passed it. I guess he was showing us the way.

Tomorrow we plan to go to Shearwater marina near New Bella Bella. We need to top off fuel, provision, laundry, etc.

No worries,

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Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Around Cape Caution

N 51 19.668, W 127 44.271
Millbrook Cove, Smith Sound
Winds 4-10 knots, Seas 1-2 meters

We weighed anchor at 7:00 am this morning, and out the Queen Charlotte Straits. As we headed northwest we started to experience the swells from the ocean, sometimes slowly rising up and down and other times going up and then splashing down with the bow with water coming over the bow and washing down the sides. We had a push from the current most of the way which helped. Almost all of the boats we saw were heading the opposite direction or across to Vancouver Island. Are we missing something?

Mandu did very well, trying to sleep in his bed on the floor of the cockpit. I don't think he was enjoying it but at least he did not get sick.

We came around Cape Caution and continued into Smith Sound. We heard warnings of gale force winds (34-47 knots) in western Queen Charlotte Sound. We are glad we decided to put in a long day today and get around the Cape. We saw blow and the black fluke of a whale but it was too quick for us to identify.

We are in a small anchorage at the north side of Smith Sound called Millbrook Cove. It has a small entry and you go around a protection island into the cove so it is almost hidden from the sound. We joined a small powerboat called Sea Eagle from Anacortes.

Tomorrow we hope to continue up Fitz Hugh Sound, towards Bella Bella.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Blunden Harbor

N 50 54.343, W 127 17.493
Blunden Harbor

This morning we were up early and motored out as the fog was starting to rise. We saw Dall porpoises and dolphins jumping and feeding. It is fun to watch and breaks up the boredom. we passed a few boats as we went out Well Passage to the Queen Charlotte Straits. The winds were very light in the morning and slowly built to about 10 knots as we were entering the anchorage at Blunden Harbor, a popular stop on the way to Cape Caution. We were lucky and had favorable currents.

Tomorrow will be an early day to push around the cape.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Monday, July 19, 2010

Anchor dance

N 50 50.587, W 126 42.540
Greeenway Sound, Broughton Island

Our friends Doug and Nancy arrived on Friday. Doug, Rich and I took a hike over to Billy Proctor's museum across on Shoal Bay. This is the same hike I took with Dan and Madeline, two years ago, in 2008, when we were last at Echo Bay.

On Saturday we relaxed, read, and in the evening we enjoyed Pierre's famous pig roast on the Weber 8 million.

Sunday morning we took Doug and Nancy to Waddington Bay, so that they could experience anchoring out. In the afternoon the sun came out and the winds started to build. This is when we saw the anchor dance. Two power boats were rafted together, held in place by an anchor of one of the boats, or so they thought. As the winds continued and the afternoon wore on to cocktail hour, their anchor started to drag, closer and closer to us. Now we were watching and not in any immediate danger but others in the bay started to get concerned. Finally one of the boats in the anchorage blew their horn and another went over in their dingy to alert them. Well, we suspect that the folks on these two boats had already started their happy hour which ended abruptly. After a scurry of activity, their started their engines and tried to bring up the anchor, while they were still rafted together. This did not work so well, so they disconnected and the anchored boat lifted anchor and re-anchored, still not putting out enough rode. The second boat, did backward circles in the harbor trying to decide whether to raft up or just put down their own anchor. Eventually they put down their own anchor a distance away from the first boat. Of course, others in the anchorage are watching this the whole time. Finally one other boat got concerned about his own anchor and re-anchored as well. After they were finished the winds started to diminish and calm was restored to the anchorage.

Monday morning we went back to Echo Bay so Doug and Nancy could catch their plane back to Seattle which was due to leave at 12:30 pm. As we waited we filled one of our propane tanks and topped off our fuel tanks. Their plane was over 2 hours late leaving Seattle so it did not arrive to pick them up at Echo Bay until 3:00 pm and it still had to make stops at Greenway Sound Marina and Sullivan Bay Marina and Port Hardy before returning to Seattle. We hope they arrived safely.

After they left, Rich and I departed for Cypress Harbor, only to find the harbor filled with a fish farm operation. So we continued into Greenway Sound and found a small anchorage where we are tucked in for the night.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Friday, July 16, 2010

Back at Echo Bay

N 50 45.158, W 126 29.843
Pierre's at Echo Bay, Gilford Island

We spent 3 nights at Waddington Bay. We read books, did some chores, relaxed, enjoyed the scenery. It was great.

For those of you who are cat lovers, one of the sailboats anchored near us had 2 large cats that looked like Maine Coons. These cats were huge. One of them kept getting onto the swim step and looked like he wanted to jump into the dingy. His owner would come and shoo him back into the cockpit. More often other boats have dogs and you can watch them taking the dog to land periodically. The dogs would be lifted into the dingy, be up in front, eyeing the land anxiously, looking back and urging the driver to go faster. I am glad we don't have to do this for Katmandu. Cat boxes are a lot easier especially when it is cold, windy and raining.

We came back to Pierre's at Echo Bay to meet our friends Doug and Nancy Hansmann. They flew up from on Kenmore Airlines seaplane. They will spent 3 nights with us. Today Rich, Doug and I hiked over to Billy Proctor's Museum on Shoal Bay. Billy was born and raised in this area and started collecting items that washed up on shore or he found in the islands. He started collecting with a small Indian stone knife that he found when he was seven years old. Now his collection is housed in a small building. It has all sorts of items, from old bottles to a gas powered iron. His story is recounted in "Heart of the Raincoast, A Life Story" by Alexandra Morton and Billy Proctor. I picked up a copy here at the marina but I have not read it yet.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Back anchoring out

N 50'43.088, W 126'36.842
Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island

Being at a marina is nice. You have access to water, electricity, showers, laundry, sometimes a grocery store, restaurant, internet/wireless, cell phone, etc. They are all those things you take for granted when living in a house or an apartment. It is easy to get accustom to having them. Mind you we enjoy our time at marinas and the people we meet but it is also relaxing to be at anchor. To see the eagles soar over the trees, to look at the stars at night without all of the background light, to just float and turn with the wind and the tide.

After doing a little provisioning (Bounty bars, eggs, fresh vegetables, bananas, bagels, etc) and cleaning the dingy, we left Pierre's, and motored south to Bonwick Island. At the north end of the island is a small bay called Waddington Bay. I am not sure who Waddington was. It seems to me that the oldest form of grafitti is the naming of places by either the indigenous peoples or by the explorers. Simple examples are Seattle, Vancouver, Juan de Fuca. I guess that Waddington was some explorer or a member of a party of explorers and they named this bay for him (or her?).

Anyway, it is a small bay and we are joined by 9 other boats. The winds are strong in Queen Charlotte Straits so we have some wind in the bay but not bad. We sail a bit when we are at anchor but there is plenty of room. Even though it is a little windy, the sun is shining and we have the panels around the bimini so it is nice and comfortable for reading and napping.

I suspect we will stay here tomorrow as well and do a few chores. We plan to meet some friends who are flying up on Friday at Pierre's.

No worries
SV Windarra

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Monday, July 12, 2010

Pierre's at Echo Bay

N 50'45.152, W 126'29.870
Pierre's at Echo Bay, Gilford Island

Yesterday we got up leisurely and waited for some of the fog to lift. We stopped by the marina at Kwatsi bay and filled our water tanks and bought some jam and chutney at the store. The cruisers were on the deck waiting to watch the World Cup finals.

We practiced with our radar and motored our way thought the fog over to Pierre's at Echo Bay. This is a great place. We stopped here two years ago on our trip to the Broughtons and our friends, Dan and Madeline Sego flew up and joined us here for a few days.

The previous owner acquired one of the floating pontoons from the old I90 bridge and has it towed up here. It is now the site of the grocery store and the famous pig roasts on Saturday nights. They have a Weber 8million that they use to roast an entire pig. It is quite the BBQ. Tonight we joined the cruiser crowd for Fish & Chips night. It was great fresh halibut.

A lot of the marinas in this area host potlucks and dinners such as the Saturday night pig roast to encourage community among the cruisers as well as to encourage boaters to stay at the marina. It is fun and we join in a bit but we also like quiet anchorages too.

Today was spent doing laundry, boat chores, etc. With wireless access at the marina, I was able to catch up on email, the blog, as well as checking on finances and bills. No matter how far we get, they are still there. Rich installed a step to go over the refrigeration tubing between the compressor in the aft stateroom closet and the refrigeration/freezer in the galley. Yesterday we washed the salt off the boat from the rapids and Johnstone Straits.

No worries,

SV Windarra

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Tied too tight

N 50'52.011, W 126'14.164
Kwatsi Bay

This morning we left Burial Cove early to catch the slack through Chatham Channel. It is about a mile and a half long (guesstimate) and there are range markers at each end to help you stay in position when going through the channel. It would not be a good to run aground. After the channel we crossed Knight Inlet and then up Tribune Channel around Gilford Island. Kwatsi Bay is on the mainland side of the channel opposite Wahkana Bay on the north side of the island.

A couple and their two children run a small marina in the bay which is very popular in this area. We usually anchor at the far end of the bay and we plan to stop at the marina tomorrow for water and to buy some jam and honey at their small store.

Everyone who has a boat has various experiences anchoring, some good, some not so good. It is also something that you can't help but watch others when they do it as well. Since we have anchored in this bay before we are a little bit familiar with the conditions, namely that it averages 29 meters in depth and that it shallows very fast when you are almost on shore. Since the bay is fairly roomy we don't worry about a stern tie since there is plenty of room for everyone to anchor and swing without one. After we had set our hook and got relaxed another sailboat entered the harbor to anchor. They tried three different places to anchor. Similar to Goldilocks, one spot was too near another boat, one spot was too deep and the third spot, well it was better but not quite right. In an attempt to improve the third location, they decided to add a stern tie. Typically, you set your anchor, then run a line from your stern to something strong on shore, in this case a large boulder and then adjust the anchor rode and the stern tie to keep your boat in position. Sounds easy enough. Well, in this case the stern tie was stretching over a distance, twice as long as the sailboat itself, to the shore. Instead of letting out more rode to move the boat closer to shore, they tighten the stern tie. As I was sitting in the cockpit reading, I heard this sound that was at a 1 hertz frequency. I knew if was not from something on our boat. I looked over and the stern tie of the sailboat was oscillating and the sound was reverberating across the water.

I think they were tied a little too tight.

Tomorrow we are off to Pierre's at Echo Bay.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Friday, July 9, 2010

Johnstone Straits

N 50'33.649, W 126'13.208
Burial Cove, East Cracroft Island, Broughton Island group

This morning we got up at 6:30 am. By that time, half of the boats in the anchorage had already left. We headed out on our way to Johnstone Straits. The winds were 5-10 knots, on our bow, seas 1-2 feet, when we left at the bottom of the ebb out Sunderland Channel. As we entered the straits the winds continued to build. At one point we had 20-25 knots. The seas continued to build as well as we had wind over tide. We still had plenty of water on the foredeck but not excessive. No cruise ships in sight. But is was sunny and we were making good time so instead of stopping at Port Neville, we opted to continue on. As the tide changed, the seas flatted out, the winds diminished to about 10 knots. We rounded the Broken Islands and proceeded up Havannah Channel. To go through Chatham Channel, we need to be at slack as it is a narrow passage and the currents are too strong otherwise. So instead of waiting we decided to anchor at Burial Cove which is about a mile away, and spend the afternoon and evening. One of the boats, Kumiya, that was at Forward Harbor as well, was anchored here.

It is a small cove with just a few houses around it (read 4). We saw one of the residents, pulling a large floating log with his aluminum boat and tying it to another in the cove. We are not sure if he is just being a good mariner and helping the waterways be safer for others or if this is a free enterprise operation and when he collected enough he will sell them. Either way, there is one less log floating in Johnstone Straits which is a good thing.

Pooters is doing well. He spends most of the passage in his bed on the floor of the cockpit, sleeping. If it is a bit rough, he covers his eyes with one of his paws.

The weather has been getting warmer. We used the sunshades for the bimini enclosure when we were in Forward Harbor and they worked well. Also helped keep the bugs out too. I still have some bites though. They always manage for find me.

I am having problems with our single sideband radio, an Icom M802. I am interested in listening to the Great Northern Boaters Net, which provides information for this area and farther north. The frequencies are not already pre-programmed into our radio as the other nets such as Manana or Pacific Net. The problem is I am unable put the radio in the mode to enter the frequency. When I push the [RX CLAR] button, I do not see the ">" symbol on the display so I can not enter the frequency. If anyone has any suggestions, I am open. I just sent an email to Icom but I don't expect a response before Monday.

Well, at least the sailmail works.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Thursday, July 8, 2010

2 more rapids

N 50'28.913, W 125'45.221
Forward Harbor

This morning we got up early (6:15 am) and after a cup of coffee, headed out and went through Greene Point and Whirlpool rapids. We set anchor in Forward Harbor at 9:30 am.

Forward Harbor is a long inlet almost two miles long. A half mile inside is a small anchorage known as Douglas Bay. We had the whole place to ourselves, until after 3 pm. Now there are 10 boats with an equal number of sailboats as powerboats.

It would be my guess that all are planning on heading out through Johnstone Straits tomorrow as we are. We will go out the harbor, through Sunderland Channel into the Straits. We plan to head for the Broughton Islands but we will see what it is like in the Straits. We remember a cold, windy day that stretched far into the night when we did our shakedown cruise around Vancouver Island in 2001 with Jesse and Sarah. We saw cruise ships going by and we could hear the music, the tickling of glasses from the ships. Sarah imagined the warm baths they could be taking versus sitting in the cockpit in foul weather gear.

I hope our passage tomorrow is warm and dry and uneventful.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Through the rapids

N 50'26.594, W 125'29.545
Cordero Island

This morning after coffee we went over to Refuge Cove, a favorite provisioning stop for boats in Desolation Sound. There is a grocery store, book exchange, showers, laundry, a small snack shop and fuel dock. Across the harbor is Dave's garbage barge where you can deposit your garbage for $5.00 a bag. We topped off the aft tank and bought a few groceries. They had wireless available so I downloaded email from our hotmail account. If you want to get a hold of us, send email our sailmail account - wda6359 (at) sailmail.com.

After Refuge Cove we motored to Yaculta Rapids, then through Dent Rapids and into Cordero Channel. You need to make sure you time the rapids to catch them at slack. Tomorrow we will get up early to go through Greene Pointe and Whirlpool Rapids.

There are very few boats we are noticing. We were just about the only boat going through the rapids today. Maybe it is because it took so long for summer to get here.

The scenery is so beautiful but if I take pictures they all look the same. The steep sided islands are covered with fir trees down to the water, sometimes with granite rock faces. In the distance you can see snow on the mountains on Vancouver Island or on the mainland. The water looks green from the reflect of the trees. Occasionally you will see a cabin or a fishing lodge. At Yaculta Rapids there is a large complex with a swimming pool, spa, fishing, dining, etc, but then you go around the bend and there is wilderness again.

This area was named Desolation Sound by Capt. Cook and his men. They were looking for food, water, good anchorage and the Northwest Passage but they did not find any of these things. Just lots of trees.

No worries, trees and all,
SV Windarra

Monday, July 5, 2010

Visiting old haunts

N 50'08.004, W 124'55.562
Squirrel Cove, Cortez Island, Desolation Sound

Belated Happy 4th of July

After checking the weather in the morning we decided that staying put was a better idea. So, we spent the day at Pender Harbor doing a few chores and reading.

This morning we brought up the anchor at 9:30 am. By the way, the windlass is working great. Before heading out we motored by Steve and Elsie's boat, Osprey. They were on our dock at Shilshole. It was the first boat of someone we know. They are headed towards Bella Coola.

After leaving Pender Harbor we put up the sails. Nice wind, relatively smooth seas but we were not going in the direction we wanted to go. We would have to zig-zag our way north and since we had 50 miles to go we opted to motorsail instead. The sun was out, it was a pretty day but a long one.

Now we are anchored in Squirrel Cove not far from the entrance. There are quite a few boats but it is not as chock'a'block full as we have seen it in the past. We have noticed that the water is full of jelly fish, white ones in all sizes big and small. We will need to check our water intake to make sure we do suck any up into our hoses.

Next to us is an all black ketch named Cetacea. We think it might be a CT ketch. But it is definitely black. Black topsides, black sails, black masts, black lines, black cockpit enclosure, black dingy, black kayaks, black dog and a black cat. On the aft deck there are some planters with little white skulls hanging over them. There is also a white skull mounted on the bow pulpit. An interesting color scheme.

We plan to stay here tomorrow night as well and then start making our way towards the Broughton Islands as weather permits.

Hope you all enjoyed the 4th of July.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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Saturday, July 3, 2010

Heading North again

N 49'37.620, W 124'01.297

We had a great lunch at the Dockside Restaurant, Granville Island Hotel with Tony, Libby and their family and some friends of theirs Sean and Shawna. It was great to see them and catch up on what has been happening since we saw them last, about 6 years ago when Windarra arrived from Australia.

Rich and I spent some time at the market at Granville Island, provisioning. What a great place for food. We tried to have something to eat before we went each time but still we bought a lot of stuff, fresh meats, vegetables, fruit plus some treats like duck pate. We also went to West Marine to buy a few items - a new boat hook, some carbines, etc.

On Friday before we left, we met Bob and Bari again for drinks. It is always great to visit with them. We got a chance to see some of Bob's watercolors of sailboats, very exciting scenes. Maybe he will do one for us sometime.

This morning we got up, took showers, washed the crow poop off the boat and headed out with the tide. We passed an old schooner sailing across English Bay. Now that we have AIS we can identify some of the cargo vessels anchored in the bay, like "First Emu". This just struck me as an unusual name for a cargo ship.

Now we are anchored in Garden Bay at Pender Harbor. This is a favorite spot that we have stayed at in the past. It is great to be at anchor again after the big city. Tomorrow we will continue north. Depending on the tides and wind, it is supposed to rain tomorrow, we will either go to Sturt Bay or Squirrel Cove.

No worries,
SV Windarra

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Visiting the big city

N 49'46.373, W 123'07.062
Vancouver, BC

Happy Canada Day!

We are now in Vancouver at the Quayside (pronounced 'keyside' by the locals) Marina in False Creek.

Tuesday we had a great sail from Porlier Pass across the Straits of Georgia to Vancouver. The winds at the start were about 7 knots and gradually built to 15 knots as we cross shifting from a beat to weather to a broad reach. Amazingly the only sail change we needed to make was letting out the main. The Yankee and staysail settings held the whole way across. The sun was shining and the wind generator was spinning and the batteries were staying charged with the autopilot, navigation instrumentation and refrigeration humming away. This is great news.

For our first night in Vancouver we stayed at the Coal Harbor Marina next to the Bayshore hotel. After the boat was rinsed and we had showers, we treated ourselves to appetizers at Cardero's. The next morning we did laundry and checked our emails at a Wi-Fi cafe. We left the marina, fueled up and went around to False Creek. We dropped anchor to wait for a slip at one of the yacht clubs but apparently our timing was not working out so we moved to the Quayside instead. In the evening we had dinner with my cousin Bari and her husband, Bob. It was great to get together and catch up on how everyone is doing and hear about their trip to Germany.

Today we plan to get together with Libby and Tony of Silkie C. We first met them in Napa in August, 2001. They were also on the Baja Ha-Ha with us that same year. Looking forward to visiting with them.

The current thought is to stay 2 more nights in Vancouver and then continue north.

No worries,
SV Windarra

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