Back at Puerto Williams

Wednesday was a long night after a long day. We pulled into Puerto Toro expecting to see some of the lights on at the pier but it was very, very dark so we anchored in the harbor and right behind us was a sailboat at anchor with no lights on, faintly looming in the dark. After they heard us anchor they turned their lights on, a little late.

Thursday morning we hoped to go all the way back to Puerto Williams but the 30 knots on the nose in the channel discouraged us so we anchored at Caleta Margarita, for a calm restful afternoon, reading and relaxing. A much better alternative to pounding at 3 knots.

This morning we had little wind and smooth water to Puerto Williams and we are tied up at the same place where we left on Monday morning.

I looked up traditions concerning rounding the Horn. One tradition is that a sailor who had rounded Cape Horn was entitled to wear a gold loop earring, in the left ear, the one which had faced the Horn in a typical eastbound passage - and to dine with one foot on the table. Sounds good to Rich and I. There is also something about tattoos but I am not going there.

Cheers

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Rounding the Horn

55 59.515 S, 067 15.424 W, Cabo de Hornas

Today was a special day, a day of bucket lists and t-shirts. At 11:24 am, we rounded Cabo de Hornas, The Horn! We even had dolphins cheering us on.

It is late now as we traveled all the way back to Puerto Toro and it is time to get something to eat and go to bed, but we just wanted to share our news.

Good night

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Caleta Martial Sur

S 55 49.509 S, 067 16.883 W, Caleta Martial Sur, Isla Herschel

The crab fishermen left very early this morning and we have the pier to ourselves and Carlos' dog, who gave us sad dog eye looks as we castoff.

For most of the day we had little or no wind with flat seas. We enjoyed the view, watching the cormorrants and penguins, bobbling along as we passed. It seemed idyllic until this afternoon when the winds picked up to 25 knots and the seas as well. Not quite on the nose but close. I had hoped that the winds would abate as we got closer to the islands ahead of us but no joy. In the distance we saw 3 sailboats who must have gone passed the Horn on their way to Antarctica.

Now we are anchored in Caleta Martial Sur, the winds howling through the rigging at 26 knots. A group of dolphins swam by to say hi and went on their way. Originally we planned to anchor in Caleta Martial Nord but there was a sailboat already there. No sense in crowding.

We will look at the gribs tonight and decide what the plan is for tomorrow.

Cheers

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Puerto Toro

55 04.915 S, 067 04.423 W, Puerto Toro, Isla Navarino, Chile

We are on the move again as we are on the downhill slide of our colds, with just the residual cough.

This morning at 10:10 am we let loose our dock lines as left the Micalvi at Puerto Williams. The winds were light and the sky had promises of sunshine. Surprisingly enough after over a month sitting the speed log started working right away. I guess not much grows in these cold waters. As we headed east in the Beagle Channel we saw Magellan penguins, the flying variety of steamer ducks, Wandering Albatross, giant petrels and dolphins. Besides the wildlife the channel was quiet.

This afternoon we tied up to the tall pier at Puerto Toro. If Ushuaia is the southernmost city and Puerto Williams is the southernmost town, then Puerto Toro is the southernmost village. We are sharing the pier with 3 fishing boats, loading up on crab pots as it is now the season for centolla, or king crab. Carlos, one of the fishermen, helped us tie up.

Can you guess where we are heading?

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Back on Windarra

Antarctica was spectacular and the photos don't do justice to it but we tried. We did not see a another cruise ship while we were at Antarctica just during our crossings of the Drake (1 on the way out, 2 on the way back). It seemed like we were the only people there. We saw the wildlife up close and personal, including curious penguins trying to bite my walking pole or my pants. The views of the mountains, glaciers and icebergs were stunning, especially the bergs that were definitely larger than the ship!

We had a great time. It was nice to take a break from Windarra even though we were still on the water. And we definitely have a healthy respect for the Drake Passage. We wish you could have been there with us.

Sunday we arrived in Ushuaia and disembarked just after breakfast. We took at taxi to our hostel, relaxed and checked the Internet. Rich got a cold the last part of the trip. That is what happens when you are in close confines with almost 200 people. Now I have it too :( In the evening we got together for drinks and dinner with some of the folks we met on the cruise. It is a nice mix of younger people and I guess they don't mind hanging out with us.

Yesterday we took the zodiac back to Isla Navarino and the van to Micalvi and Windarra. Apparently we missed a system that went through while we were gone that included 85 knot winds at Micalvi and the Chilean armada recorded 97 knot gusts. School was closed at Ushuaia as well. James, who looked after Windarra, says everything is a-ok. The lines to and from the boats are like a spider web.

It is good to be back on Windarra as we nurse our colds. Hopefully we will recover soon.

Sent from SV Windarra iPad

Neko Harbor, Petermann Island and Crazy Hat Night on board

Penguins march down a well worn path at Neko Harbor. We saw the elusive Adelie's penguins on Petermann Island as well. One night on the ship we had a barbeque outside on the back deck. A crazy hat was required for admission. Modeling our hats is Rich, Elaine, Will, Skye, Rebecca and Donal. Will and Skye are from Australia. Rebecca and Donal are from Ireland.

Lemaire Channel, Pleneau Bay, Petermann Island

We had beautiful, sunny skies for our passage through Lemaire Channel. This photo does no do it justice. At Pleneau Bay we rode around looking at the icebergs. You can tell Rich is having a good time. There were more penguins at Petermann Island like this fellow resting on a rock.