Thursday, May 16, 2013

Bahia Drake

8 41.808 N, 83 40.116 W, Bahia Drake

Today there was not enough wind to sail in (< 5 knots most of the time) so we motored from Punta Quepos. We left at 7 am and arrived at 3 pm. There were 3-4 foot swells from the southwest on the forward starboard quarter so we rocked and rolled listening to the engine drone on and on. We did see some spotted porpoises and turtles, some with a bird hitching a ride to break up the monotony. There were some logs and branches in the water which we were careful to watch for.

Of course, 15 minutes before we anchor, it starts to rain. Not just a sprinkle but a downpour. So the boat it hot inside from the engine running all day and we have to close it all up for the rain. Rich and I are sitting in the driest spots in the cockpit where it is cooler, enjoying our evening drink and watching the sunset.

Punta Quepos

9 24.302 N, 84 10.114 W Punta Quepos

We left Punta Leona and stopped for fuel at Bahia Herradura and decided to stay and spend the night. It rained so we took advantage and got a free shower in the rain. Yesterday was a long, long motor to Punta Quepos. We had Reg and Phoebe over for night amid the rain, thunder and lightening. It was quite a display.

Today we are bound for Bahia Drake, named for Sir Francis Drake.

All is well,

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Monday, May 13, 2013

Punta Leona

Sunday we caught the afternoon rising tide and threaded our way out the channel from the yacht club and Puntarenas and over to Isla San Lucas for the night.

This morning we headed south again stopping at Punta Leona. The anchorage is quiet with just us, Three Sheets and the Costa Rican Coast Guard. Last night they were escorting a cruise ship out of Puntarenas.

Phoebe has invited us over for dinner.

Tomorrow we head for Quepos as we harbor hop our way south to Golfito.

Cheers

Sent from Elaine's iPhone

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Back at the Costa Rica Yacht Club in Puntarenas


9 58.948 N, 84 47.603 W Puntarenas
 
On Friday we did some provisioning since we still had the rental car until Saturday morning in preparation for departure. We had emptied the freezer and refrigerator and turned them off before we left for the road trip and it was time to fill them back up. We found a great bakery next to the Mega Stop which sold coconut macaroons and cinnamon rolls. In the evening we went out for dinner.
 
Saturday we needed to check out with the port captain to get our national zarpe for Golfito. Easier said than done. Idalie, who manages the yacht club told us where the port captain was on Elaine's iphone. Rich drove, I rode shotgun and Reg was in the back. We arrive at the address. No port captain, no sign that this is where we shoud find the port captain. Hmmm? We drove around the adjacent blocks, asked someone on the street. No joy. We went over to where the cruise ships dock. There was a large painted sign that said Capitan de Puerto in front of a building next the dock. We asked a security guard where was the port captain and he directed us to the ferry dock. Hmmm? So back in the car and off to the ferry dock. A gentleman directing traffic asked us in English, where are you going? We replied we want to see the port captain. He told us to park our car and to go see his frined, Marvin, who speaks English. Marvin, who owns the restaurant across from where we parked, spent some time in Trenton, New Jersey and speaks excellent English. It turns out that his friend who was the port captain 10 years ago was visiting. Between the two of them, they tried to contact the current port captain but just got an answering machine. But, Marvin agreed to get in the car with us and help us find the port captain. So off we go in the car again right back to the building next to the cruise ship dock. Upstairs was the port captain's office but it was closed. It turns out that the office that Idalie had directed us to was destroyed in the earthquake in 2011 so this was the new location. Some mysteries are solved but still no port captain. We drove Marvin back to his restaurant and he made a few more phone calls. The response was that port captain does not work on weekends, so we will have to wait until Monday.
 
We drop off the rental car but they can not drive us back to the yacht club so we take a cab. When we arrive back at the yacht club, Idalie had managed to get ahold of the port captain. He was visiting his mother in the next town but agreed to meet us at the yacht club in the afternoon and provide us with a national zarpe for a fee. Yes!
 
So we hung out at the restaurant at the yacht club, having lunch, surfing the web, waiting for the port captain and our laundry. Phoebe was having problems with her mac computer and had to backup and restore but now it seems to be good to go. The port captain arrived, we did our paperwork and he graciously declined to accept the fee. Thank you Idalie and the port captain.
 
By this time, we had missed the high tide so we decided to stay another night instead of leaving a day early. No problemo.
 
Our laundry arrived and we got a panga ride back to the boat, just before the rain started in earnest.
 
This morning, Sunday, we will prepare Windarra for transit, taking down the sunshades, the sunscreens and the sailcover after they dry in the morning sun. High tide is this afternoon, so shortly before we will leave, weaving our way back out the 4 miles to the entrance.
 
We have enjoyed our time here but it is time to go.

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Toucan Rescue Ranch day 2

10 01.566 N, 84 02.201 W, Toucan Rescue Ranch

This morning Leslie and Jorge of the Toucan Rescue Ranch gave us a tour of their facility. Most of the birds and animals need to be rescued due to the black market or deforestation or accidents. In Costa Rica it is illegal to have a Costa Rican wild animal or bird and recently the law is being more aggressively enforced. The officials conduct raids and road blocks inspecting vehicles looking for illegal animals. In one case, they found a baby sloth in the trunk of a car whose legs were damaged as it was taken from its mother. People who want to get into the drug trade will steal toucan chicks, raise them in small baskets and sell them on the black market to get enough money to buy drugs. Nests of toucans were recovered when a large tree was cut down without being properly inspected to see if there were nesting birds in the tree. Luckily the loggers saw the nests when they were cutting up the tree and took them to the authorities who brought them to the rescue ranch. In one case a toucanet was hit by a truck and the trucker dropped off the bird. Now the bird is recovering from its injured wing and they are hoping it may be released to the wild.

Leslie told us story after story, some with before and after pictures of the animals that she and Jorge have nursed back to health. Some injuries mean that the animal may be released into the wild if at all possible. For others the injuries or situation is such that they will stay indefinitely at the ranch. The toucanet is a potential success story. The baby sloth will recover from its injuries but may never be released as it does not have a mother to teach it life skills and it can not survive on its own in the wild.
Leslie feeding a baby sloth

We were able to see toucans pairs that Leslie is hoping will mate and produce offspring for later release. Other critters include two and three toed sloths, stinky porcupines, a spider monkey,  a wild cat, several varieties of owls, hawks, scarlet macaws, love birds, and parrots

 
Rescued Toucan
 
 
Ralph, the whistling duck, who followed us on the tour

Our visit was certainly enlightening. We appreciate the places that are helping to preserve the rain forest and habitats of these beautiful creatures. It also makes the cases where we were able to see the animals in the wild much more special.

If you would like to learn more about the Toucan Rescue Ranch, please go to their website, http://www.toucanrescueranch.com/

After our tour we drove back to Puntarenas and Windarra and the heat. It is definitely hotter here on the coast. We hope to be on our way soon.

Sent from SV Windarra iPad

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Toucan Rescue Ranch

10 01.566 N, 84 02.201 W, Toucan Rescue Ranch

Today was a busy day. After breakfast at the Poas Lodge we drove up to the entrance of the Poas Volcano National Park. We hiked up to the caldera which is at 8350 feet above sea level. There was a fumarole in the crator and a lake of rainwater from which there was steam coming off. The volcano is active but not erupting which was good for us. From this viewpoint we could see part of the city of San Jose. If it had been a clear day we would have seen the Caribbean. From this caldera, Reg, Phoebe and I hiked up to the lagoon, another lake in another caldera of the same volcano. At this point we were up to 8800 feet above sea level. As we drove down we stopped and bought some fresh strawberries. They are red and sweet.
Crator of Poas Volcano



Our next stop was the La Paz Waterfalls. This park has not only waterfalls but an aviary, hummingbird enclosure, butterfly house, snake house (I didn't stay here long), frog house and wild cat enclosures.. All of the critters at the Waterfalls are rescued and not captured from the wild. At the aviary there was a special enclosures of toucans. There were all types f toucans including the toucanet. Most are relatively tame and would sit on your arm. It was fun seeing them so up close and I tried to take a lot of pictures, hoping some will come out. The butterfly house was filled with colorful butterflies, especially blue ones. We did see a bright blue and black poison dart frog plus a few tree frogs. The waterfalls were refreshing to see. Even though the rainy season is just starting there was plenty of water tumbling down. It was a bit of a hike down to the waterfalls but we were assured that there would be shuttles at the end of the trail to take us back to the entrance to the park. It was true but no one told us that the last part of the hike would be up a long series of stairs before you reached the shuttle area.
 Rich eyeing the toucan
Elaine sees a toucan close up

Scarlet Macaw spreads his wings
Tiny poison dart frog
 
Elaine and Phoebe by the waterfall
 
After the waterfalls we had a drive over hill and dale to reach the Toucan Rescue Ranch where we are staying at the guesthouse. I was glad that Google maps was working because we would never have made it without it. There was a few times when we had to backup to get back on the right road and Google maps was premature at indicating the entrance to the ranch but we made it. The Toucan Rescue Ranch is a 10 year old facility for rescuing not only toucans but other birds and animals that have either been injured, orphaned or can not be released into the wild. We will learn more about this tomorrow when we have our tour.

More to come.

Sent from SV Windarra iPad
 

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Sarchi, Poas Lodge

10 09.3 N, 84 13.5 W, Poas Lodge and Restaurant
 
We packed and then bid farewell to the Villa Blanca and headed for Sarchi. Sarchi is know for the colorful wooden ox carts that are a symbol of Costa Rica. They were built and used to carry coffee beans for export. They are brightly painted with designs that look similar to the Pennsylvania Dutch artwork on barns. Sarchi is also known for wooden furniture and shops which sell souvenirs, cheaper than San Jose. So we stopped for a little shopping.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
World's largest ox cart at Sarchi
 
 
View from our room at the Poas Lodge
 
The road wound through small villages and farms on steep hillsides. We saw large portions of land covered by black sunshade material, underneath was growning ferns and plants for export as well as produce for local consumption including strawberries.
 
We are at the Poas Lodge at 7300 feet above sea level. From the window of our room we can look down into the valley and see the city of San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica and home of over a million souls. Tomorrow we will go to the Poas Volcano National Park, where the entrance is just up the road from where we are staying.